Barvanje svile in volne z naravnimi barvili

Breščak, Sindi (avtor), Gorjanc, Marija (mentor)

Namen diplomskega dela je bil proučiti vpliv redčenja barvalne kopeli na obarvljivost svile in volne ter vpliv pranja na obstojnost posameznega barvila v določenem razmerju redčenja barvalne kopeli. Prav tako je bil namen izdelati barvno karto, ki bi oblikovalcu služila kot vodilo pri barvanju končnega izdelka glede na izbrani barvni ton. Za barvanje substratov so bila uporabljena naravna barvila kurkume, rdečega zelja in hrastovih šišk v kombinaciji z železovim sulfatom. Ekstrakcija barvil je potekala v vodnem mediju. Ekstrakti so bili uporabljeni kot barvalna kopel. Polovica vzorcev tkanin volne in svile je bila čimžana v vodni raztopini aluminijevega sulfata. Za ugotavljanje vpliva redčenja barvalne kopeli na obarvljivost tekstilnih substratov so bile barvalne kopeli redčene z destilirano vodo v razmerjih: 1 : 0; 1 : 1; 1 : 2; 1 : 5 in 1 : 10. Za doseganje enakomernega obarvanja so bile tkanine barvane po izčrpalnem postopku v laboratorijskem aparatu Launder-o-meter. Barvanje z barvilom kurkume in rdečega zelja je potekalo pri kopelnem razmerju 1 : 40, temperaturi 60 °C in času 60 minut. Barvanje z barvilom hrastovih šišk je potekalo pri kopelnem razmerju 1 : 40, pri sobni temperaturi in času 20 minut. Barva čimžanih in nečimžanih vzorcev je bila številčno ovrednotena s pomočjo refleksijskega spektrofotometra Datacolor Spectraflash 600 Plus-CT in uporabe CIE L*a*b* barvnega sistema. Prav tako so bile opravljene meritve tudi po testu obstojnosti na pranje. Rezultati raziskave kažejo, da redčenje barvalne kopeli vpliva na obarvljivost substratov, saj so vzorci z redčenjem barvalne kopeli postajali svetlejši (vrednost CIE L* se zvišuje). Iz rezultatov je razvidno, da redčenje barvalne kopeli vpliva tudi na CIE a* in CIE b* barvne vrednosti. Redčenje barvalne kopeli hrastovih šišk pri barvanju svile vpliva na znižanje vrednosti koordinat CIE a* in CIE b*; vzorci so z redčenjem postajali bolj zeleni in bolj modri, medtem ko pri vzorcih volne ni bilo opaziti konstantnega zniževanja ali višanja vrednosti CIE a* in CIE b*. Redčenje barvalne kopeli rdečega zelja vpliva na zvišanje vrednosti CIE a* in znižanje vrednosti CIE b* ne glede na substrat ali čimžanje, saj so vzorci z redčenjem postajali čedalje bolj zeleni in bolj rumeni. Z redčenjem barvalne kopeli kurkume so vzorci svile postajali bolj zeleni in bolj modri. Vzorci volne so bili v primerjavi z vzorcem svile bolj rdeči in bolj modri. Prav tako je opazen vpliv čimžanja, saj so bili čimžani vzorci temnejši od nečimžanih. Ugotovljeno je bilo, da imata barvilo kurkume in barvilo rdečega zelja slabo pralno obstojnost.

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: volna, svila, naravna barvila, kurkuma, hrastove šiške, rdeče zelje, čimžanje, aluminijev sulfat
• Vrsta gradiva: Diplomsko delo/naloga
• Organizacija: NTF - Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta
• Leto izida: 2017
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-95346
• Datum objave v RUL: 20.09.2017

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Naslov: Dyeing silk and wool with natural dyes

Izvleček

The purpose of the thesis was to examine the effect of dyebath dilution on dyeability of silk and wool and the wash fastness of individual dyes in certain dyebath dilution ratios. Additionally, the aim was to create a colour chart that would serve the designer as a guideline when dyeing the final product based on the selected colour tone. For dyeing of textile substrates, the natural dyes of turmeric, red cabbage and oak gall with the combination of ferrous sulphate were used. The dyes were extracted in the water medium. These extracts were used as a dyebath. Half of the silk and wool fabrics were mordanted with the aluminium sulphate. To determine the effect of the dyebath dilution on the dyeability of fabric substrates, the dyebaths were diluted with distilled water in the following ratios: 1 : 0; 1 : 1; 1 : 2; 1 : 5 and 1 : 10. To ensure uniform dyeing, the fabrics were dyed using the exhaust dyeing process in the Launder-o-meter laboratory apparatus. Dyeing with the turmeric and red cabbage dyes was performed at liquor to goods ratio 40 : 1, at 60 °C, for 60 minutes. Dyeing with the oak gall dye was performed at liquor to goods ratio 40 : 1, at room temperature, for 20 minutes. The mordanted and non-mordanted samples were numerically evaluated for their colour, using the Datacolor Spectraflash 600 Plus-CT spectrophotometer and the CIE L*a*b* colour system. The colour measurements were carried out after the washing fastness test as well. The results show that the dyebath dilution affects the substrates dyeability, as it made the samples brighter (CIE L* values are raising). Moreover, the results show that the dyebath dilution affects the CIE a* and CIE b* colour values as well. Dyeing silk with the oak gall dye, the dyebath dilution lowers the CIE a* and CIE b* colour coordinates; the more the dyebath was diluted, the greener and bluer the samples were. On the other hand, there was no constant lowering or raising of CIE a* and CIE b* values with the wool samples. Diluting the red cabbage dyebath raises the CIE a* values and lowers the CIE b* values irrespective of the substrate or mordanting, as the samples became greener and yellower. The dilution of the turmeric dyebath produces greener and bluer coloration of samples. The wool samples were redder and bluer compared to the silk samples. The effect of mordanting was also be observed, as the mordanted samples were darker than the non-mordanted ones. It was established that the turmeric dye and the red cabbage dye have poor colourfastness to washing.

• Ključne besede: wool, silk, natural dyes, turmeric, oak galls, red cabbage, mordanting, aluminium sulphate