Vrednotenje vpliva kozmetičnih izdelkov s sirotko na izbrane parametre kože

Smej, Nika (avtor), Gosenca Matjaž, Mirjam (mentor), Bjelošević Žiberna, Maja (komentor)

Na področju kozmetologije je vse bolj aktualna uporaba kozmetično aktivnih sestavin (KAS) biološkega izvora, med katere uvrščamo tudi proteine in peptide. Obenem kozmetična industrija v ospredje postavlja skrb za okolje in sledi trendom t. i. industrije »brez odpadkov«. V skladu s to usmeritvijo in upoštevajoč načelo krožnega gospodarstva je aktualna možnost uporabe velike količine sirotke, ki predstavlja odpadni material in s tem močno obremenjuje okolje. Sirotka se je že v preteklosti uporabljala za nego kože in las, zato je bil glavni namen pričujoče diplomske naloge izdelati kozmetične izdelke (KI) s sirotko in ovrednotiti njihov vpliv na izbrane parametre kože in vivo. V okviru diplomske naloge smo izdelali dva različna kozmetična izdelka s tekočo sirotko, in sicer šampon za lase in čistilni hidrogel, ter njune učinke na kožo vrednotili v sklopu raziskave in vivo na 10 prostovoljkah, ki jo je odobrila Komisija Republike Slovenije za medicinsko etiko. Med raziskavo smo se osredotočili na ključne kazalnike funkcije kože: transepidermalno izgubo vode, hidratacijo kože, eritemski in melaninski indeks ter sijaj kože. Izdelali smo dva različna sistema, tj. šampon in čistilni hidrogel, oba z vgrajeno sirotko in brez nje. Bazalne vrednosti omenjenih parametrov smo primerjali z vrednostmi parametrov po enkratnem nanosu (20 minut) posamezne formulacije. Rezultati so pokazali, da formulacije s sirotko zmanjšajo transepidermalno izgubo vode, kar odraža izboljšano barierno funkcijo kože. Obe formulaciji brez vgrajene sirotke sta pozitivno vplivali na hidratacijo kože, sirotka pa je stopnjo hidratacije še dodatno izboljšala. Šampon z vgrajeno sirotko ali brez nje ni značilno vplival na eritemski indeks, kar potrjuje, da ne povzroča draženja kože, prav tako ni bilo razlik v melaninskem indeksu. Razlik v sijaju kože pri uporabi čistilnega hidrogela z vgrajeno sirotko ali brez nje nismo zaznali. Na podlagi rezultatov lahko potrdimo ugoden vpliv sirotke na barierno funkcijo in hidratacijo kože ter njen potencial za nadaljnje formuliranje, razvoj in vrednotenje kot kozmetično aktivne sestavine izdelkov za nego kože.

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: sirotka, vrednotenje na prostovoljkah, transepidermalna izguba vode, hidratacija, eritemski in melaninski indeks, sijaj kože
• Vrsta gradiva: Magistrsko delo/naloga
• Tipologija: 2.09 - Magistrsko delo
• Organizacija: FFA - Fakulteta za farmacijo
• Založnik: [N. Smej]
• Leto izida: 2026
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-186696
• UDK: 665.5(043.2)
• COBISS.SI-ID: 290168323
• Datum objave v RUL: 04.09.2026

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Naslov: Evaluation of whey-based cosmetic products' effect on selected skin parameters

Izvleček

In the field of cosmetology, the use of cosmetically active ingredients of biological origin, which also include proteins and peptides, is becoming increasingly popular. At the same time, the cosmetics industry is putting environmental concerns in the spotlight and following the trend of "zero waste" industry. In accordance with this approach and considering the principle of circular economy, the current possibility of linking the cosmetics and dairy industries is being considered. Large quantities of whey, a byproduct of milk processing, are produced, which is a waste material and thus puts a strain on the environment. Whey has been used for skin and hair care in the past, so the main purpose of this thesis was to develop cosmetic products with whey and evaluate their impact on selected skin parameters in vivo. As part of the thesis, we developed two different cosmetic products with liquid whey, namely a hair shampoo and a face cleansing hydrogel, and evaluated their effects on the skin in an in vivo study on 10 female volunteers, with the approval of the Slovenian Medical Ethics Committee. During the study, we focused on key indicators of skin function: transepidermal water loss skin hydration, erythema index, melanin index and skin gloss. We developed two different systems, a shampoo and a hydrogel, both with and without integrated whey. We compared the baseline values of the mentioned parameters with the values of the parameters after a single application (20 min) of each formulation. The results showed that whey formulations reduced transepidermal water loss, reflecting an improved skin barrier. Both formulations without whey had a positive effect on skin hydration, and whey further improved the level of hydration. Shampoo with or without built-in whey did not have a significant effect on erythema index, confirming that it does not cause irritation, also no differences in melanin index were observed. We did not detect any differences in skin brightness when using a cleansing hydrogel with or without built-in whey. Based on the results, we can confirm the beneficial effect of whey on the barrier function and hydration of the skin, as well as its potential for further formulation and evaluation as a cosmetic active ingredient in skin care products.

• Ključne besede: whey, evaluation on female volunteers, transepidermal water loss, hydration, erythema and melanin index, skin gloss