Vrednotenje vpliva hidrogelov na transepidermalno izgubo vode in vitro

Balantič, Valentina (avtor), Gosenca Matjaž, Mirjam (mentor), Bolko Seljak, Katarina (komentor)

Transepidermalna izguba vode je poglavitni dejavnik stanja kože, ki nam pomaga pri vrednotenju barierne funkcije kože. Skrbna nega kože s pravilno izbranimi kozmetičnimi izdelki je ključna za vzdrževanje optimalne ravni vlage in s tem posredno njene zaščitne vloge. V ta namen pogosto uporabljamo hidrogele, nosilne sisteme s širokim spektrom uporabe, ki imajo na področju medicine, farmacije, biotehnologije in kozmetologije pomembno vlogo. V okviru diplomskega dela smo na prašičji koži in vitro vrednotili dva sklopa hidrogelov, in sicer hidrogele, ki temeljijo na nanokristalni celulozi, vrsti nanomateriala, pridobljenega iz celuloze, ter hidrogele za čiščenje obraza s sirotko, stranskim produktom pri proizvodnji sira. Zanimal nas je njihov vpliv na barierno funkcijo kože, natančneje na transepidermalno izgubo vode (TEWL). Prvi sklop hidrogelov na osnovi nanokristalne celuloze so predstavljale štiri formulacije hidrogelov z različno kvalitativno in kvantitativno sestavo, in sicer naravni polimer (aginat ali pektin), variabilni delež vode in eno od dveh vrst nanokristalne celuloze. Med vrednotenjem smo opazili, da so končne vrednosti TEWL vseh štirih formulacij primerljive in iz dobljenih rezultatov ni mogoče nedvoumno potrditi pozitivnih učinkov uporabe hidrogela na zmanjšanje vrednosti TEWL. V nadaljevanju smo omenjene hidrogele posušili do nastanka filmov in preučili tudi vpliv slednjih na vrednosti TEWL. S pridobljenimi rezultati smo potrdili, da je uporaba filmov na koži koristna, kar potrjujejo tudi vrednosti TEWL, ki so pri vseh paralelah ostale primerljive z bazalnimi vrednostmi. V nadaljevanju naloge smo se osredotočili na formulacije hidrogelov za čiščenje obraza s sirotko, razvite v okviru predhodnih raziskav. Želeli smo ovrednotiti njihov potencial draženja, glede na različno koncentracijo vgrajene površinsko aktivne snovi. Ugotovili smo, da vgrajena površinsko aktivna snov ni izkazala negativnega vpliva na barierno funkcijo kože; tako so razviti hidrogeli za čiščenje obraza primerni za uporabo tudi na bolj občutljivi koži. Z rezultati diplomske naloge smo potrdili pomembnost vrednotenja hidrogelov in vitro pred njihovo uporabo na koži. Rezultati vrednotenja TEWL so zato bistveni pri razvoju vlažilnih in nedražečih hidrogelov za nanos na kožo.

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: hidrogel/kserogel, nanokristalna celuloza, sirotka, transepidermalna izguba vode
• Vrsta gradiva: Diplomsko delo/naloga
• Organizacija: FFA - Fakulteta za farmacijo
• Leto izida: 2023
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-147586
• Datum objave v RUL: 08.07.2023

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Naslov: In vitro evaluation of hydrogels on transepidermal water loss

Izvleček

Transepidermal water loss is one of the main properties of the skin indicative of its barrier function. Careful skin care with properly selected cosmetic products is crucial for maintaining an optimal level of moisture in the skin and, to maintain its protective role. Hydrogels, carrier systems with a wide range of applications, are often used for this purpose and play an important role in the fields of medicine, pharmacy, biotechnology and cosmetology. As part of the thesis work, two sets of hydrogels were evaluated on porcine skin in vitro. The first set consisted of hydrogels based on nanocrystalline cellulose, a type of nanomaterial derived from cellulose, and the second set consisted of hydrogels for facial cleansing with whey, a by-product of cheese production. We were interested in their impact on the skin's barrier function, specifically on transepidermal water loss. The first set of hydrogels based on nanocrystalline cellulose consisted of four formulations with different qualitative and quantitative compositions, namely, a natural polymer (aginate or pectin), a variable proportion of water and one of two types of nanocrystalline cellulose. During the evaluation, we observed that the final TEWL values of all four formulations were comparable, and the obtained results did not unequivocally confirm the positive effects of hydrogel application in reducing TEWL values. In addition, we also dried these hydrogels to form films and examined their influence on TEWL values. With the obtained results, we confirmed that the use of films is beneficial, which is further supported by TEWL values that remained comparable to the basal values for all parallels. In the continuation of the study, we focused on facial cleansing formulations with whey, developed in previous studies. We wanted to evaluate their potential for irritation based on the different concentration of the incorporated surfactant. We found that the incorporated surfactant did not have a negative impact on the skin's barrier function. Therefore, the developed hydrogels for facial cleansing are suitable for the use on even more sensitive skin. With the results of this thesis, we confirmed the importance of in vitro evaluation of hydrogels before their application on the skin. The results of the TEWL evaluation are therefore essential for the development of moisturizing and non-irritating hydrogels for skin application.

• Ključne besede: hydrogel/xerogel, nanocrystalline cellulose, whey, transepidermal water loss