In the thesis, the influence of some construction parameters on the end properties of jacquard woven fabrics was investigated. The basic constructional parameters of the fabric, i.e. raw material composition and linear density of the yarn, thread density in warp and weft and weave, influence the physical-mechanical properties, permeability, aesthetic and other properties of the fabric that determine its end use. The planning of the input parameters and the construction of the functional fabric is called the mechanical functionalization of the fabrics.
We compared nine woven fabrics made of three different types of weft yarns (cotton, modal, Lyocell Clima), two different weave patterns, and two groups of double weaves (self stitched, unstitched ). All fabrics were woven with the same warp yarn and under the same conditions. We investigated the physical-mechanical properties of the yarns and fabrics and concluded that the linear density, the diameter of the yarns and the weave of the fabrics have a significant influence on the properties of the jacquard woven fabrics. Fabrics with cotton weft, which had the greatest linear density, had the smallest thread density in weft, the greatest fabric thickness and mass per unit area, and consequently the smallest air permeability, the greatest thermal conductivity, the highest UV protection factor, and the greatest dimensional changes. Fabrics with modal weft, which had the lowest linear density, obtained the opposite results than fabrics with cotton weft in all tests. Fabrics with Lyocell Clima weft, which had almost the same linear density as the cotton weft, were more resistant to pilling, showed the best resistance to dimensional changes, and the highest breaking point in the weft direction. Double non-stitched fabrics had lower breaking point and elongation at break and better air permeability as they had less compact structure.
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