Pregled in varnost aktivnih sestavin deodorantov in antiperspirantov v kozmetičnih izdelkih, dostopnih na slovenskem tržišču : univerzitetni študijski program Kozmetologija

Hriberšek, Anja (avtor), Sollner Dolenc, Marija (mentor)

V modernem času je skrb za higieno ena izmed glavnih človekovih skrbi. Da ne razvijemo neprijetnega telesnega vonja, množično uporabljamo deodorante in antiperspirante. To so izdelki, ki jih uporabljamo vsakodnevno, zato nas je zanimalo, v kolikšni meri so res varni za uporabo. Ker z antiperspiranti zaviramo potenje, smo posebno poglavje v diplomski nalogi posvetili procesu potenja in kako nastaja znoj. Ta je pogoj za razmnoževanje bakterij, ki proizvajajo neprijetni telesni vonj. Deodoranti delujejo na bakterije na koži na več načinov. Lahko povzročijo spremembo pH površine kože, z dišavami prekrijejo neprijetni vonj ali vsebujejo spojine, ki uničijo bakterije. Namen diplomske naloge je bil pregledati in oceniti varnost aktivnih sestavin deodorantov in antiperspirantov, ki so dosegljivi na slovenskem trgu. Pregledali smo 446 različnih izdelkov, ki smo jim izpisali sestavine. Glede na delovanje izdelka ter spol uporabnika, smo jih razvrstili v 4 skupine. Te smo nato razdelili na več podskupin, glede na kozmetično obliko izdelka. Zanimalo nas je, kateri izdelki prevladujejo, zato smo primerjali te skupine med sabo. Ugotovili smo, da je na slovenskem trgu več izdelkov za ženske, med vsemi izdelki pa je največ ženskih antiperspirantov (40 %). Zanimalo nas je tudi, katere so najpogosteje uporabljene aktivne sestavine za posamezne skupine izdelkov. V antiperspirantih je najpogosteje uporabljen aluminijev klorohidrat, medtem ko so pri deodorantih parfum, alkohol, galunovec, citronska kislina, trietil citral in etilheksilglicerol. Za najpogosteje uporabljene aktivne sestavine smo s pomočjo mnenj SCCS in druge strokovne literature ocenili varnost v kozmetičnih izdelkih. Ugotovili smo, da je večina sestavin varna za uporabo v koncentracijah, ki veljajo za kozmetične izdelke ob razumno predvideni uporabi. Vendar pa nekatere sestavine povzročajo pri majhnem deležu uporabnikov draženje ali preobčutljivostne reakcije. Slednje povzročajo trietil citral (v 27 % deodorantov), etilheksilglicerol (v 34 % deodorantov) in cinkov ricinoleat (v 6 % deodorantov). Priporočljivo bi bilo, da je na takšnem izdelku oznaka, ki opozarja potrošnike na možnost neželenih učinkov, vendar to trenutno še ni predpisano za tovrstne izdelke. Ugotovili smo, da je najmanj varen za uporabo triklosan, saj je poznan kot hormonski motilec, hkrati pa ima veliko dermalno absorpcijo. Tega se zavedajo tudi proizvajalci, saj smo ga našli le v majhnem deležu pregledanih izdelkov (1,8 % oziroma 8 izdelkov).

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: deodoranti antiperspiranti potenje aktivne snovi toksikološki profil sestavine izdelkov
• Vrsta gradiva: Diplomsko delo/naloga
• Tipologija: 2.11 - Diplomsko delo
• Organizacija: FFA - Fakulteta za farmacijo
• Kraj izida: Ljubljana
• Založnik: [A. Hriberšek]
• Leto izida: 2018
• Št. strani: XI, 84 str.
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-120149
• UDK: 665.5:613.4(043.2)
• COBISS.SI-ID: 4574577
• Datum objave v RUL: 16.09.2020

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Naslov: Review and safety of active ingredients in deodorants and antiperspirants in cosmetic products available in the Slovenian market : University Study Programme Cosmetology

Izvleček

Nowadays good personal higiene is one of the main humankind concerns. We massively use deodorands and antipespirants to prevent and to cover the unpleasant body odour. Because we use these products on daily bases, we were interested in their safety. With the use of antiperspirants we reduce the amount of perspiration. The process of perspiration (e. g. sweating) and the production of fluids secreted is explained in one of the chapters of this Bachelor's degree. Human sweat is the main reason for reproduction of bacteria, causing the unpleasant body odour. Deodorants have different effects on skin bacteria: they can cause a difference in pH of the skin surface, their fragrance can cover up body odour or they contain chemical compounds that kills the colonized bacteria. In this Bachelor's degree we examined and estimated the safety of active compounds of deodorands and antiperspirants, avaliable on Slovenian market. We annalized 446 different products and their ingredients and classified the products into 4 groups, based on their activity and the sex of their user. Those groups are categorised in several subgroups, based on cosmetic form. We compared the groups, to found out which products prevail. The predominant products in Slovenian market are for women. Women antiperspirants represent 40 % of all products. We were looking for most commonly used active compounds for each individual subgroup. In antiperpirants the most frequently used ingredient is aluminium clorohydrate (86 % in women and 71 % in men products), whereas in deodorants the mostly use compounds are parfumes, alcohol, potassium alum, citric acid, triethyl citrate and ethylhexyl glycerol. We evaluated the safety of active compounds used in cosmetic products with the use of SCCS and other tehnical literature. The results showed that most of the ingredients are safe for use in concentrations, that apply to cosmetic products within rational use. However, some compounds can cause irritation or oversensitive and allergic reactions. They can be caused by triethyl citrate, ethylhexyl glycerol and zinc ricinoleat and this is the reason that it should be adviced to label those products with a warning of possible side effects for consumers. However, those regulations are not yet established. We found out that the least safe compound for use is triclosan, knows as a hormone disruptor. It also has a high dermal absorption. Producers are probably aware of this inconvenience, because we found traces of triclosan in only 1, 8 % (8 products) of all examined products.

• Ključne besede: deodorants antiperspirants sweating active ingredients safety toxicological profile