Raziskovanje spolnih identitet v kolekciji oblačil

Petrović, Dejan (avtor), Sadar, Almira (mentor)

V magistrski nalogi je raziskan pojem spolnih identitet in kako se ta manifestira v oblačilih posameznikov. Skozi zgodovino in v različnih kulturah se je pojem spolne identitete močno spreminjal. Kar je bilo nekoč izključno moško oblačilo, se je skozi čas preselilo v žensko garderobo in obratno. Pojma ženstvenosti in moškosti sta se spreminjala do danes. Za razvoj vzdušja in identitete kolekcije sem se osredotočil na spolne identitete drugih kultur, kjer poleg binarnega heteronormativnega ločevanja spolov poznajo še število drugih spolnih identitet. Identitete kot so Baklâ v filipinski kulturi ali posameznikov znanih kot »two-spirited« v kulturah severnoameriških Indijancev, kjer je biološki spol posameznika nasproten njegovemu psihološkemu spolu. V teoretičnem delu je raziskana tudi razlika med moškimi, ženskimi ter androgenimi identitetami v oblačilih in med pojmom »crossdressinga« ter sodobno različico, znano kot drag. Raziskava je služila oblikovanju kolekcije Bloom, pri kateri sem s pomočjo ilustracij raziskal ciljno skupino in preko dekonstrukcije oblačil zgradil kolekcijo. Kolekcija združuje tipično moške in tipično ženske elemente med seboj v sodobno kolekcijo, ki je primerna za vse spolne identitete. V zaključnem delu je prikazana modna fotozgodba posneta v LGBT klubu Tifanny kot referenca na klubska prizorišča, kjer so se začela mnoga sodobna gibanja za svobodo izražanja.

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: moda, zgodovina oblačenja, transspolnost, spolne identitete, drag, modna fotografija
• Vrsta gradiva: Magistrsko delo/naloga
• Organizacija: NTF - Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta
• Leto izida: 2019
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-110012
• Datum objave v RUL: 11.09.2019

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Naslov: The gender identities in a fashion collection

Izvleček

The master thesis is centred around the research of gender identities and how the gender identities are shown with the use of clothing. Through history and in different cultures gender identites were strongly interchangable between genders and certain clothing items deemed as female were actually male and vice versa. For the development of the collectiion an important factor was the research of different culutres around the world and how they concieved gender, from the Baklâ people of the philiphines to the two spirited people of the Native Americans where the sex was different from their gender. The theoretical part also disscuses the difference between the culural perception of male, women and androgynous people and how that is expressed in their clothing, as well themes about crossdressing and drag. The whole research was a conceptual basis for the development of the collection Bloom. The collection was developed by research of important pop culutre figures, a series of illustrations which displayed the different gender expressions of people and with the idea of the deconstruction of genders a deconstruction of clothing was used to develop the silluetes of the collection. The result is a collection, that isn't gender specific because it encorporates elements of menswear and womenswear intertwined into a fluid collection. The collection was shoot in our LGBT Tiffany as a reference to the begingings of the movements that started the fight for the expression of freedom.

• Ključne besede: fashion, history of fashion, transgender, gender identities, drag, fashion photography, crossdressing