Meritve vsebnosti koencima Q10 in vitamina E v kozmetičnih izdelkih

Gojčič, Mojca (avtor), Roškar, Robert (mentor), Temova Rakuša, Žane (komentor)

Koencim Q10 in vitamin E sta lipidotopna antioksidanta, ki koži pomagata predvsem pri odstranjevanju reaktivnih kisikovih zvrsti, zato sta pogosti sestavini »anti-age« kozmetike in sta v izdelkih pogosto skupaj. Ker v nobenem izdelku, ki ima navedeno prisotnost vitamina E, njegovega derivata ali CoQ10, ni podana njihova vsebnost, je bil osrednji cilj diplomske naloge ugotoviti njihovo prisotnost v izdelkih, določiti vsebnost, nato stabilnost pri različnih pogojih in rezultate primerjati znotraj iste blagovne znamke, oblike izdelka, glede na cenovni razred ter vrsto oz. namen uporabe kozmetičnega izdelka. Za ta namen smo uporabili metodo HPLC-UV, ki je bila predhodno razvita v Laboratoriju za stabilnost na Fakulteti za farmacijo, in jo preverili na standardnih raztopinah. Optimizirali smo enostavno metodo ekstrakcije kozmetičnih izdelkov ter dokazali dobro ponovljivost in učinkovitost ekstrakcije. Analizirali smo 22 kozmetičnih izdelkov različnih blagovnih znamk, cen in oblik, ki so imeli naveden CoQ10 in/ali vitamin E (prost in v obliki acetata). Ugotovili smo, da večina izdelkov navedene spojine vsebuje, v nekaterih izdelkih pa je bila prisotna še katera od iskanih spojin, ki ni bila deklarirana. V vseh izdelkih, ki navajajo CoQ10, je bil le-ta prisoten, a v nobenem v reducirani obliki. CoQ10 in vitamin E se v testiranih kozmetičnih izdelkih pojavljata v mikrogramskih, vitamin E acetat pa v miligramskih količinah (na 1 g izdelka). Ugotovili smo, da med vsebnostjo CoQ10 in kakovostjo ter ceno izdelka ni povezave. Prav tako je vsebnost CoQ10 v dnevnih in nočnih kremah približno enaka. Preverili smo tudi stabilnost teh spojin v testiranih izdelkih s pospešenimi testi, z izpostavitvijo UV-svetlobi ter dolgoročno stabilnostjo po odprtju izdelka v originalni ovojnini. Vitamin E acetat in CoQ10 sta v večini izdelkov stabilna po enem mesecu shranjevanja na 40 °C. Obstojnost obeh spojin je primerljiva po enem mesecu na 40 °C in enem mesecu po odprtju izdelka na sobni temperaturi. Vse tri spojine so se izkazale za nestabilne po izpostavitvi ultravijolični svetlobi, vendar je v testiranih izdelkih vitamin E acetat bolj fotostabilen kot CoQ10. Slednji je stabilnejši v dnevnih kremah z zaščitnim faktorjem kot v nočnih kremah. S pospešenimi testi smo pokazali, da so vse spojine v izdelkih stabilne in da med uporabo ne prihaja do interakcij z drugimi sestavinami. Hkrati pa v izdelkih niso fotostabilne, zato je pomembna zaščita izdelka in spojin pred UV-svetlobo.

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: koencim Q10, tokoferol, tokoferil acetat, kozmetični izdelek, vsebnost, stabilnost, HPLC
• Vrsta gradiva: Diplomsko delo/naloga
• Organizacija: FFA - Fakulteta za farmacijo
• Leto izida: 2019
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-109382
• Datum objave v RUL: 31.08.2019

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Naslov: Measurement of coenzyme Q10 and vitamin E content in cosmetic products

Izvleček

Coenzyme Q10 and vitamin E are lipid-soluble antioxidants, which protect the skin from free radicals and are therefore widely used in anti-age cosmetics. Since the concentration of these compounds is not declared on any of the products on the market, our main goal was to determine whether they are present in the selected products, to evaluate their concentrations as well as their stability under different conditions. For such purposes previously developed HPLC-UV method was used. The method was validated in terms of selectivity, linearity, repeatability, precision, accuracy, and sample stability. Simple extraction procedure was optimized and validated, confirming high extraction recovery and good repeatability of the sample preparation. 22 cosmetic products of different brands, price range and type, with declared coenzyme Q10 and/or vitamin E (single or as acetate) were analyzed and compared regarding to the brand, price range and type of cosmetic product. Majority of the products contained all the compounds listed on the packaging, although some products contained compound that was not specified. Coenzyme Q10 was found in all products which declared it, but its reduced form was not found in any of tested products. In the tested cosmetic products coenzyme Q10 and vitamin E were present in microgram and vitamin E acetate in miligram quantities (per 1 gram of product). Correlation between coenzyme Q10 concentration and the quality and price of the product was not found. Moreover, its concentrations in day and night skin care products were almost the same. The stability of these compounds in different products was further checked with accelerated tests (1 month, 40 °C), exposure to the UV light and storage at the room temperature in the original package for one month after opening. The results of accelerated testing showed that coenzyme Q10 and vitamin E acetate were stable under these conditions. All of the three compounds were found sensitive to UV light, among which vitamin E acetate was the most photostable. Coenzyme Q10 was also more stable in day creams with sun protection factor than in night creams. Based on the stability testing it can be concluded that coenzyme Q10 and vitamin E are not photostable so the protection of product and compound from UV light is very important.

• Ključne besede: coenzyme Q10, tocopherol, tocopheryl acetate, cosmetic product, content, stability, HPLC