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Content and stability of B complex vitamins in commercial cosmetic products
ID
Temova Rakuša, Žane
(
Author
),
ID
Šenk, Anja
(
Author
),
ID
Roškar, Robert
(
Author
)
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https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.15321
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Abstract
Background: Individual B vitamins have many favorable effects on the skin and are common cosmetic ingredients. However, their formulation is demanding due to stability issues, which consequently affect the products’ quality. Aims: We aimed to determine the quality (labeling accuracy, content determination, and content-related quality control) and stability under long-term and accelerated storage conditions of a representative sample of commercial cosmetics containing the most common B vitamins – nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin. Methods: Cyanocobalamin was determined by a previously published stability-indicating HPLC–diode array detector (DAD) method for the simultaneous determination of all hydrophilic vitamins. This method was additionally simplified and adjusted for the time-effective analysis of nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, and pyridoxine. Both methods were properly validated. Results: All labeled B vitamins were present in the 36 tested products, mostly in contents, reported effective on the skin. Thus, a straightforward correlation between vitamin contents and product prices were not observed. The content-related quality control of eight products, which quantitively specify their content, revealed significantly lower nicotinamide contents (47% and 57%) in two products and appropriate or higher nicotinamide (102%–112%) and dexpanthenol (100%–104%) contents than declared in the remaining products. The 6-month long-term and accelerated stability studies demonstrated the products’ physical stability, but also revealed dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin degradation, while nicotinamide was mostly stable in the tested products. Conclusions: The obtained results provide an inside into the quality of commercial vitamin B cosmetics and highlight the importance of stability testing in the formulation of quality, efficient, and safe cosmetics.
Language:
English
Keywords:
cosmeceuticals
,
cosmetic formulation
,
D-panthenol
,
niacinamide
,
nicotinamide
,
stability
,
vitamin B3
Work type:
Article
Typology:
1.01 - Original Scientific Article
Organization:
FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Publication status:
Published
Publication version:
Version of Record
Year:
2023
Number of pages:
Str. 628-636
Numbering:
Vol. 22, iss. 2
PID:
20.500.12556/RUL-144304
UDC:
665.58
ISSN on article:
1473-2165
DOI:
10.1111/jocd.15321
COBISS.SI-ID:
121266691
Publication date in RUL:
13.02.2023
Views:
514
Downloads:
113
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Record is a part of a journal
Title:
Journal of cosmetic dermatology
Shortened title:
J. cosmet. derm.
Publisher:
Wiley
ISSN:
1473-2165
COBISS.SI-ID:
517755929
Licences
License:
CC BY-NC 4.0, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International
Link:
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/
Description:
A creative commons license that bans commercial use, but the users don’t have to license their derivative works on the same terms.
Secondary language
Language:
Slovenian
Keywords:
kozmetična formulacija
,
D-pantenol
,
niacinamid
,
nikotinamid
,
stabilnost
,
vitamin B3
,
kozmetika
Projects
Funder:
ARRS - Slovenian Research Agency
Project number:
P1-0189
Name:
Farmacevtska tehnologija: od dostavnih sistemov učinkovin do terapijskih izidov zdravil pri otrocih in starostnikih
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