Content and stability of B complex vitamins in commercial cosmetic products

Temova Rakuša, Žane (avtor), Šenk, Anja (avtor), Roškar, Robert (avtor)

Background: Individual B vitamins have many favorable effects on the skin and are common cosmetic ingredients. However, their formulation is demanding due to stability issues, which consequently affect the products’ quality. Aims: We aimed to determine the quality (labeling accuracy, content determination, and content-related quality control) and stability under long-term and accelerated storage conditions of a representative sample of commercial cosmetics containing the most common B vitamins – nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin. Methods: Cyanocobalamin was determined by a previously published stability-indicating HPLC–diode array detector (DAD) method for the simultaneous determination of all hydrophilic vitamins. This method was additionally simplified and adjusted for the time-effective analysis of nicotinamide, dexpanthenol, and pyridoxine. Both methods were properly validated. Results: All labeled B vitamins were present in the 36 tested products, mostly in contents, reported effective on the skin. Thus, a straightforward correlation between vitamin contents and product prices were not observed. The content-related quality control of eight products, which quantitively specify their content, revealed significantly lower nicotinamide contents (47% and 57%) in two products and appropriate or higher nicotinamide (102%–112%) and dexpanthenol (100%–104%) contents than declared in the remaining products. The 6-month long-term and accelerated stability studies demonstrated the products’ physical stability, but also revealed dexpanthenol, pyridoxine, and cyanocobalamin degradation, while nicotinamide was mostly stable in the tested products. Conclusions: The obtained results provide an inside into the quality of commercial vitamin B cosmetics and highlight the importance of stability testing in the formulation of quality, efficient, and safe cosmetics.

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Ključne besede: cosmeceuticals, cosmetic formulation, D-panthenol, niacinamide, nicotinamide, stability, vitamin B3
• Vrsta gradiva: Članek v reviji
• Tipologija: 1.01 - Izvirni znanstveni članek
• Organizacija: FFA - Fakulteta za farmacijo
• Status publikacije: Objavljeno
• Različica publikacije: Objavljena publikacija
• Leto izida: 2023
• Št. strani: Str. 628-636
• Številčenje: Vol. 22, iss. 2
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-144304
• UDK: 665.58
• ISSN pri članku: 1473-2165
• DOI: 10.1111/jocd.15321
• COBISS.SI-ID: 121266691
• Datum objave v RUL: 13.02.2023

Gradivo je del revije

• Naslov: Journal of cosmetic dermatology
• Skrajšan naslov: J. cosmet. derm.
• Založnik: Wiley
• ISSN: 1473-2165
• COBISS.SI-ID: 517755929

Licence

• Licenca: CC BY-NC 4.0, Creative Commons Priznanje avtorstva-Nekomercialno 4.0 Mednarodna
• Povezava: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/deed.sl
• Opis: Licenca Creative Commons, ki prepoveduje komercialno uporabo, vendar uporabniki ne rabijo upravljati materialnih avtorskih pravic na izpeljanih delih z enako licenco.

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: kozmetična formulacija, D-pantenol, niacinamid, nikotinamid, stabilnost, vitamin B3, kozmetika

Projekti

• Financer: ARRS - Agencija za raziskovalno dejavnost Republike Slovenije
• Številka projekta: P1-0189
• Naslov: Farmacevtska tehnologija: od dostavnih sistemov učinkovin do terapijskih izidov zdravil pri otrocih in starostnikih