Čimžanje s postopkom tiska pri barvanju z naravnimi barvili

Magdič, Tjaša (avtor), Gorjanc, Marija (mentor), Tomšič, Brigita (komentor)

Namen diplomskega dela je bil proučiti čimžanje tekstilij s postopkom tiska pri barvanju z naravnimi barvili. Volna (WO), surov (COs) in beljen (COb) bombaž so bili barvani z naravnimi barvili kurkume (KU), čebulnih olupkov (ČE) in vina teran (VT). V prvem delu raziskave je bil določen vpliv koncentracije in staranja ekstraktov KU in ČE ter temperature barvanja z VT, pri čemer so bili nečimžani vzorci WO, COb in COs pobarvani v svežih in dva dni staranih ekstraktih KU in ČE ter v vročem in hladnem z VT pri dveh koncentracijah. V drugem delu raziskave pa so bili vzorci WO, COs in COb čimžani s postopkom tiska, pri čemer je bil bakrov (II) sulfat dodan osnovi pigmentne tiskarske paste v treh različnih koncentracijah 0.1, 0.5 in 1.0 odstotka na maso tiskarske pate. Primerjalno so bili vzorci čimžani tudi po klasičnem postopku. Čimžanju je sledilo barvanje v proučevanih ekstraktih. Na podlagi barvnih lastnosti vzorcev je bilo ugotovljeno, da imajo koncentracija ekstrakta kot tudi staranje oz. temperatura barvanja različen vpliv na barvo vzorcev WO, COs in COb. Čimžanje s tiskom je izkazalo višje K/S vrednosti vzorcev in s tem višjo globino obarvanj v primerjavi s klasičnim čimžanjem ter v splošnem tudi temnejše barvne tone vzorcev. Primerjava vrednosti barvnih razlik (? Eab*) med vzorci je pokazala, da po barvanju s KU višanje koncentracije čimže v tiskarski pasti nad 0,1-odstotka izkazuje čedalje bolj podobno barvo vzorcev, kot jo izkazujejo nečimžani vzorci, po barvanju z ČE in VT pa je višanje koncentracije čimže v tiskarski pasti vplivalo na bolj raznolike barvne tone vzorcev COs in COb. Pri barvanju WO je višanje deleža čimže smiselno le do koncentracije 0,5-odstotka na maso tiskarske paste. V primerjavi s klasičnim čimžanjem je čimžanje s tiskom izboljšalo barvne obstojnost na pranje vzorcev COs in COb pobarvanih s KU in ČE ter vzorca WO pobarvanega z VT.

• Jezik: Slovenski jezik
• Ključne besede: naravna barvila, čimžanje s tiskom, pigmentni tiskarski sistem, barvne lastnosti, barvna obstojnost na pranje
• Vrsta gradiva: Diplomsko delo/naloga
• Organizacija: NTF - Naravoslovnotehniška fakulteta
• Leto izida: 2021
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-130122
• Datum objave v RUL: 10.09.2021

Sekundarni jezik

• Jezik: Angleški jezik
• Naslov: Mordant printing for dying with natural dyes

Izvleček

The aim of the thesis is to study the process of mordanting patterns of 100% wool (WO), raw and bleached cotton (COs and COb) in the printing procedure when dyeing with natural dyes of turmeric (KU), onion peel (ČE ) and teran wine (VT). In the first part of the research the effect of concentration and ageing of the KU and ČE extracts, and the dyeing temperature of VT were determined, whereas the mordanted patterns WO, COb and COs were dyed in fresh and two-days-old KU and ČE extracts, as well as in hot and cold VT at two concentrations. In the second part of the research the patterns WO, COs and COb were mordanted with the printing process with added copper(II) sulphate to the pigment printing pastes in three different concentrations, namely 0.1, 0.5 and 1.0 % per printing paste mass. The subject patterns were also mordanted as per standard procedure for comparison. Mordanting was followed by dyeing in researched extracts. Based on colour characteristics of patterns, the thesis finds that the extract concentration, as well as the ageing and dyeing temperature, have different effects on WO, COs and COb pattern colours. Printing mordanting has introduced higher K/S pattern values and thus a higher depth of dyeing compared to standard mordanting, and in general darker colour tones of patterns. The comparison of values of colour differences, ΔEab*, of patterns has revealed that, when dyeing with KU, the increase of mordant colorization in the printing paste above 0.1% introduces more similar colour of patterns as displayed by the non-mordanted patterns. After dyeing with ČE and VT, the increased mordant concentration in the printing paste effects the more diverse colour tones of COs and COb patterns. The WO dyeing introduces sense in increasing the mordant share solely up to the 0.5% concentration per printing paste mass. Compared to standard mordanting, the printing mordanting has improved the colour permanence toward washing the COs and COb patterns dyed with KU and ČE, as well as the WO pattern dyed with VT.

• Ključne besede: natural dyes, printing mordanting, pigment printing system, colour characteristics, dye wash permanence