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Ocena varnosti izvlečka škrlatnega ameriškega slamnika (Echinacea purpurea) kot kozmetične sestavine z uporaba pristopa s pragom toksikološkega tveganja
ID Zavrnik, Karin (Author), ID Jakopin, Žiga (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window

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Abstract
Rastlinski izvlečki zelo pogosto izboljšajo formulacijo kozmetičnega izdelka. Vsebujejo številne aktivne sestavine z ugodnimi učinki na zunanje dele človeškega telesa in na sluznico ustne votline. Izvleček škrlatnega ameriškega slamnika (Echinacea purpurea), ki sodi v družino največjih cvetočih rastlin, izkazuje pestro in zapleteno kemijsko sestavo. Zaradi toničnega, vlažilnega in regenerativnega delovanja se nahaja v številnih kozmetičnih izdelkih. Zelo pomembno je, da vsaki sestavini, ki se nahaja v kozmetičnem izdelku, ocenimo varnost, kar velja tudi za rastlinske izvlečke. Veliko rastlin je za človeka namreč strupenih, pa tudi sama sestava izvlečka je zelo spremenljiva. V diplomski nalogi smo preučili kvalitativno in kvantitativno sestavo korenine in zeli škrlatnega ameriškega slamnika, ki se nahaja v znani koncentraciji v preučevanem kozmetičnem izdelku. Ocenili smo njegovo varnost z uporabo pristopa s pragom toksikološkega tveganja (TTC), ki določa toksikološki potencial spojine na podlagi razvrščanja spojin v Cramer-jeve razrede toksičnosti s pripisanimi vrednostmi TTC varne izpostavljenosti spojini. Na podlagi njihovih fizikalno-kemijskih lastnosti, strukturnih formul in koncentracij v izvlečku smo ocenili obseg potencialne absorpcije in sistemsko izpostavljenost. Spojinam z neznano koncentracijo v izvlečku smo določili še maksimalno dovoljeno koncentracijo ter določenim izbranim sestavinam izračunali dnevno varno izpostavljenost, kar nam je omogočilo primerjavo podatkov, pridobljenih s pristopom TTC. Potencial za absorpcijo spojin je bil pri večini spojin majhen, prav tako tudi njihova sistemska izpostavljenost pri uporabi kozmetičnega izdelka, saj se v izvlečku nahajajo v zelo nizkih koncentracijah. Vrednosti sistemske izpostavljenosti so bile precej manjše v primerjavi z vrednostmi TTC na podlagi razvrstitve v Cramer-jeve razrede toksičnosti. Dnevna varna izpostavljenost določenih izbranih spojin je bila večja v primerjavi z vrednostmi TTC. Na podlagi vseh izračunov in primerjav, ki so temeljili na preučevanem kozmetičnem izdelku, smo ovrednotili izvleček korenine in zeli škrlatnega ameriškega slamnika kot kozmetično sestavino, varno za uporabo. Seveda pa se ocena varnosti razlikuje glede na koncentracijo in sestavo izvlečka v kozmetičnem izdelku, preostalo formulacijo izdelka, mesto, količino in pogostost aplikacije ter časa izpostavitve in stanje kože uporabnika.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:izvleček korenine in zeli škrlatnega ameriškega slamnika, dermalna absorpcija, sistemska izpostavljenost, dnevni varni odmerek, ocena varnosti
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Year:2020
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-117259 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:03.07.2020
Views:1672
Downloads:450
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Safety assessment of purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) extract as a cosmetic ingredient using the threshold of toxicological concern approach
Abstract:
Plant extracts are very common in cosmetic products because they improve the formulation of the product. They have many active ingredients, with beneficial effects on external parts of the human body and oral mucosa. The purple coneflower (Echinacea purpurea) extract, which belongs to the family of the largest flowering group, exhibits a diverse and complex chemical composition. The extract is used in cosmetic products because of its tonic, moisturizing and regenerating effect on the skin. It is important to evaluate the safety of every ingredient used in a cosmetic formulation and this applies for plant extracts as cosmetic ingredients as well. Many plants are toxic to humans and the composition of the extract itself can be very variable. In this thesis, we examined the qualitative and quantitative compositions of the radix and herb of the purple coneflower, which is in certain concentrations found in the cosmetic product under study. We evaluated its safety using the threshold of toxicological concern (TTC) approach, which defines the toxicological potential of the chemical, based on the classification of the compounds into Cramer´s toxicity classes with TTC values of safe exposure to the chemical. Based on their physicochemical properties, structural formula, and concentration in the extract, the potential absorption and the systemic exposure were determined. We determined the maximal allowed concentration for compounds with an unknown concentration in the extract and calculated the daily safe exposure for certain selected constituents, which allowed us to compare the values obtained with the TTC approach. The potential for absorption of compounds was low for most of the compounds, as well as their systemic exposure using a cosmetic product as their concentration in the extract is very low in comparison to the calculated maximum concentration. Values of the systemic exposure were lower compared to the TTC values based on the classification into Cramer´s toxicity classes. The daily safety exposure of some chemicals was higher compared to the TTC values. Based on all calculations and comparisons of the examined cosmetic product, we assessed the extract of the radix and herb of the purple coneflower as a safe ingredient for usage in cosmetic products. The safety evaluation, of course, varies depending on the concentration and composition of the extract in a cosmetic product, the remaining formulation of the product, the site, the amount and frequency of application. The safety evaluation is also affected by the exposure time and skin condition of the user.

Keywords:extract of radix and herb purple coneflower, dermal absorption, systemic exposure, daily safe dose, safety assessment

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