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Ocena varne uporabe sestavin za samoporjavitev v kozmetičnih izdelkih na slovenskem trgu
ID Ait Si Mohamed, Amel (Author), ID Jakopin, Žiga (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window

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Abstract
Zagorela polt v zahodnem svetu še vedno predstavlja lepotni trend. Za njeno doseganje narašča priljubljenost alternativnih pristopov, ki ne vključujejo izpostavljanja nevarnim ultravijoličnim žarkom s sončenjem ali uporabe solarijev. Eden izmed takih pristopov je uporaba samoporjavitvenih kozmetičnih izdelkov (KI). V diplomski nalogi smo raziskali različne metode in snovi za samoporjavitev kože, pri čemer smo se osredotočili predvsem na samoporjavitvene KI. S pomočjo naključnega nabora teh izdelkov, ki so dostopni v slovenskih lekarnah, drogerijah in spletnih trgovinah, smo ugotavljali, v katerih tehnoloških oblikah se največkrat pojavljajo, katere sestavine s samoporjavitvenim učinkom se v njih najpogosteje uporabljajo in kako delujejo. Na osnovi podatkov iz literature smo izdelali toksikološki profil najpogosteje uporabljenih kozmetično aktivnih sestavin (KAS) za samoporjavitev, dihidroksiacetona (DHA) in eritruloze, in ovrednotili varnost njune uporabe. Preverjali smo tudi, ali so na ovojnini izdelkov navedene sestavine, ki jih vsebujejo in ali so vse sestavine s samoporjavitvenim učinkom dovoljene. Vseh 50 izdelkov iz nabora je vsebovalo DHA ali pa kombinacijo DHA in eritruloze. Pogosteje se je DHA uporabljal samostojno. Večinokrat uporabljena sestavina za začasno obarvanje kože je bila karamela. Največkrat so se KAS nahajale v losjonih in mleku za telo. Pregledani KI so vsebovali le dovoljene samoporjavitvene sestavine. Vse sestavine pa so bile navedene na ovojnini. Študije o eritrulozi in DHA kažejo na potencialno genotoksičnost, možnost draženja kože in oči ter pojav preobčutljivostnih reakcij, ki so se večkrat pojavile v obliki alergijskega kontaktnega dermatitisa pri uporabi DHA. Hujših toksičnih učinkov študije zaenkrat niso pokazale. Zaključili smo, da samoporjavitveni KI, ki so na razpolago na slovenskem tržišču, DHA in eritrulozo vsebujejo v priporočenih koncentracijah in so varni za uporabo.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:kozmetični izdelki za samoporjavitev, eritruloza, dihidroksiaceton, varnost
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Year:2019
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-113278 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:18.12.2019
Views:1375
Downloads:271
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Assessment of the safe use of self tanning ingredients in cosmetic products available in the Slovenian market
Abstract:
In Western society a tanned complexion still represents a beauty trend. There is a growing popularity of alternative approaches for its achievement which do not involve sunbathing or using tanning beds and consequently exposure to dangerous ultraviolet rays. One of these approaches is based on the use of self-tanning cosmetic products.In this diploma thesis we have examined various methods and substances for self-tanning, focusing mainly on self-tanning cosmetic products. From a random selection of these products, which are available in Slovenian pharmacies, drugstores and online stores we were able to determine in which form they appear most frequently and which ingredients with a self-tanning effect are usually used in them and how do they work. The toxicological profiles of the most commonly used cosmetically active self-tanning ingredients, dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose, were created using data from already existing literature. The safety of their use was also evaluated. We checked if all of the used ingredients are listed on the product label and whether all of the self-tanning ingredients used in the products are allowed on the market. All 50 products from our random selection contained dihydroxyacetone or a combination of both dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose, however dihydroxyacetone more frequently appeared on its own. The most frequently used ingredient for temporary skin coloring was caramel. Self-tanning cosmetically active ingredients were mostly found in the forms of lotions and body milks. The cosmetic products examined contained only authorized self-tanning ingredients. They were all listed on the packaging. Studies on erythrulose and dihydroxyacetone have not yet shown any serious toxic effects caused by their use. In addition to the potential skin and eye irritation, erythrulose has shown potential genotoxicity and hypersensitivity reactions. The latter have so far appeared more frequently in the form of allergic contact dermatitis from using dihydroxyacetone. Dihydroxyacetone can also cause skin and eye irritation. We have come to the conclusion that self-tanning cosmetic products available on the Slovenian market contain dihydroxyacetone and erythrulose at the recommended concentrations and are safe to use.

Keywords:self-tanning cosmetics, erythrulose, dihydroxyacetone, safety

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