Ocena varnosti kozmetičnih izdelkov za posvetlitev kože, dostopnih preko svetovnega spleta

Sila, Tjaša (author), Jakopin, Žiga (mentor)

Barva kože v današnjem času predstavlja pomembno zunanjo podobo. Ljudje težimo k enakomernem tenu kože, vendar smo podvrženi vplivom okolja, zdravil in tudi genetike, pri čemer lahko pride do nastanka hiperpigmentacij na koži. Ko si ljudje želijo te nepravilnosti odpraviti, posežejo tudi po kozmetičnih izdelkih za posvetlitev kože. V diplomski nalogi smo naključno izbrali in pregledali kozmetične izdelke za posvetlitev kože, prisotne na svetovnem spletu, pri čemer smo se osredotočili na prisotnost dveh prepovedanih sestavin; to sta hidrokinon in živo srebro. Podrobno smo pregledali sestavine, prisotne na tujih trgih, in slednje primerjali s slovenskim tržiščem. Izmed vseh sestavin smo podrobneje ovrednotili in predstavili omenjeni dve v Evropski uniji prepovedani sestavini. Pregledali smo skupaj 80 kozmetičnih izdelkov za posvetlitev kože, dostopnih na tujem in slovenskem trgu, ter sestavine preverili po Uredbi (ES) št.1223/2009 o kozmetičnih izdelkih. Odkrili smo, da je na tujem trgu 96 različnih sestavin za posvetlitev kože, na slovenskem trgu pa 91 sestavin. V tujini se pojavljajo prepovedane sestavine, ki so prisotne v 22,5 % pregledanih tujih izdelkov, pri pregledu slovenskega trga pa prepovedanih sestavin ni prisotnih. Ostali del sestavin predstavljajo druge dovoljene sestavine za posvetlitev in antioksidanti, veliko pa je tudi rastlinskih izvlečkov (približno 50 % na obeh trgih). Najpogostejše sestavine v tujini so tokoferol in derivati, askorbinska kislina in derivati, alfa hidroksi kisline in hidrokinon. Na slovenskem trgu so najpogostejše sestavine enake, le da niacinamid zamenja hidrokinon. Na podlagi pregledanih toksikoloških profilov zaključujemo, da je hidrokinon potencialno kancerogen, živo srebro pa povzroča poškodbe ledvic in je potencialno reproduktivno toksično.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: hidrokinon, hiperpigmentacija, melanin, posvelitev kože, živo srebro
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2019
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-112651
• Publication date in RUL: 30.10.2019

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Safety assessment of skin-lightening cosmetic products, available online

Abstract

Skin color nowadays represents an important part of our appearance. People tend to have a uniform complexion, but we are exposed to the environment, medicines and also genetics, which can cause hyperpigmentation of the skin. When people want to correct these imperfections, they also reach after cosmetic products for skin lightening. In the scope of this thesis, we randomly selected and reviewed skin lightening products present online, focusing on the presence of two banned ingredients; hydroquinone and mercury. We thoroughly examined the components present in products on the foreign market and compared it with those present at the Slovenian market. Among all the ingredients, we have evaluated and presented two ingredients banned in the European Union. We examined a total of 80 cosmetic products for skin lightening of the foreign and Slovenian markets and revised the ingredients according to the Regulation (EC) no.1223/2009 on cosmetic products. There are 96 different skin lightening ingredients on the foreign market, and 91 ingredients on the Slovenian market. Prohibited ingredients can be found abroad in 22,5% of the reviewed products, but they are not present on Slovenian market. The rest of the ingredients include approved skin lightening agents and antioxidants. There are many plant extracts (about 50% in both markets). The most common ingredients abroad are tocopherol and derivatives, ascorbic acid and derivatives, alpha-hydroxy acids and hydroquinone. In the Slovenian market, the most common ingredients are the same, except that hydroquinone is replaced with niacinamide. Based on the toxicological profiles reviewed, it can be concluded that hydroquinone is potentially carcinogenic, while mercury causes kidney damage and is potentially toxic for reproduction.

• Keywords: hydroquinone, hyperpigmentation, melanin, mercury, skin lightening