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Razvoj in fizikalno-kemijsko vrednotenje kozmetičnih izdelkov s sirotko
Klemenčič Pocajt, Tjaša (Avtor), Gašperlin, Mirjana (Mentor) Več o mentorju... Povezava se odpre v novem oknu, Bjelošević, Maja (Komentor)

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Izvleček
Proteini in peptidi so ena izmed aktualnih skupin kozmetično aktivnih sestavin. Zaradi njihovih lastnosti ter barierne funkcije kože je njihovo prehajanje v in skozi kožo ovirano. Sirotka, stranski produkt pridelave sira, je dolgo časa veljala za odpadek mlečne industrije. Napredek znanosti in tehnologije, zaostritev regulative, ekološki vidik in večje razumevanje sestave sirotke so vodili do odkritja njenega potenciala za uporabo v kozmetiki kot vrednostne sestavine in vira proteinov. Sirotka, vgrajena v kozmetični izdelek, vpliva na samo formulacijo, prav tako pa so po uporabi izdelka s sirotko opazni pozitivni učinki na koži in laseh. Uspešna vgradnja sirotke in nasploh proteinov v kozmetične izdelke zahteva od nas razvoj ustreznega tehnološkega postopka, kar odločilno vpliva na stabilnost končne formulacije. V diplomski nalogi smo izdelali dve formulaciji s sirotko, in sicer šampon za lase in gel za čiščenje obraza. Uporabili smo sirotko v dveh različnih oblikah; tekoči (20 % m/m) in sušeni (2 % m/m), vsako od teh pa v treh različnih frakcijah: kisla sirotka, filtrirana sirotka (permeat) in iztočna sirotka (sirotka po nanosu na kromatografsko kolono). V začetni fazi razvoja smo določili optimalno koncentracijo vgrajene sirotke ter s prilagajanjem količine posameznih sestavin (NaCl, površinsko aktivne snovi) zagotovili ustrezno viskoznost. Zanimalo nas je, kako sirotka vpliva na lastnosti in stabilnost formulacije, zato smo izvedli preliminarne stabilnostne teste. Pri šamponih smo polovico vzorcev izpostavili sobni temperaturi (25 °C), ostale pa povišani temperaturi (40 °C). Gele smo izpostavili cikličnim testom, pri čemer smo izdelke vsakih 24 ur izpostavili različni temperaturi (5 °C, 25 °C, 40 °C). V okviru fizikalno-kemijskega vrednotenja smo določili pomembne parametre (pH, viskoznost, organoleptične lastnosti) za zagotavljanje stabilnosti. Po 6 tednih stabilnostne študije smo ugotovili, da je imela sirotka največji vpliv na organoleptične lastnosti. Prisoten je bil njen vonj, opazili smo tudi obarvanje, ki se je večalo z višanjem koncentracije. Vpliv sirotke na pH ni bil znaten. Sirotka v primeru gelov ni imela vpliva na reološke lastnosti, medtem ko je povečala viskoznost šamponov. Pri tem je imela sušena sirotka večji vpliv na povečanje viskoznosti kot tekoča, kar pripisujemo njeni trdni obliki. Izdelane formulacije smo na podlagi preliminarnih testov označili za stabilne. Na osnovi dobljenih rezultatov lahko zaključimo, da uporaba neobdelane sirotke in proteinov sirotke v kozmetiki možna, in je dober primer zagotavljanja sodobne trenda industrije »brez odpadkov« (»zero waste«).

Jezik:Slovenski jezik
Ključne besede:organoleptične lastnosti, pH, proteini v kozmetiki, sirotka, stabilnostni testi, viskoznost
Vrsta gradiva:Diplomsko delo/naloga (mb11)
Organizacija:FFA - Fakulteta za farmacijo
Leto izida:2019
Število ogledov:76
Število prenosov:22
Metapodatki:XML RDF-CHPDL DC-XML DC-RDF
 
Skupna ocena:(0 glasov)
Vaša ocena:Ocenjevanje je dovoljeno samo prijavljenim uporabnikom.
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Sekundarni jezik

Jezik:Angleški jezik
Naslov:Development and physico-chemical evaluation of cosmetic products containing whey
Izvleček:
Proteins and peptides are cosmetically active ingredients used in cosmetic products. Due to their properties, as well as a barrier function of the skin, proteins and peptides exhibit limited passage into and through the skin. Whey, a by-product of cheese processing, has been treated as a waste by the dairy industry. Advances in science and technology, legislative regulation, ecological aspects such as »zero waste«, and a greater understanding of whey composition have led to the discovery of its potential use in cosmetics - whey has an effect on the formulation itself while exhibiting positive effects on the skin and hair. Successful incorporation of whey, and of proteins in general, in cosmetics requires the development of an appropriate technological process, that has a crucial affect on the stability of the final formulation. In our experiment, we developed two formulations with whey; hair shampoo and facial cleansing gel. We used whey in two different forms; liquid (20 % w/w) and dried (2 % w/w), each further in three different fractions; acid whey, filtered whey (permeate), and effluent whey (whey after application to a chromatographic column). First we had to determine the optimum concentration of whey incorporated into the product and adjust the amount of individual ingridients (NaCl, surfactant) to ensure adequate viscosity of a product. We were also interested in how whey affects the properties and stability of the formulation, so we performed preliminary stability tests. For shampoos, half of the samples were exposed to room temperature (25° C) and the rest to elevated temperature (40° C). The gels were subjected to cyclic stability tests, exposing the products to different temperatures every 24 hours (5° C, 25° C, 40° C). As part of the physico-chemical evaluation, important parameters (pH, viscosity and organoleptic properties) were determined. After six weeks of stability study, we found that whey had the greatest influence on the organoleptic properties. Its odor was present. We also observed staining, which increased with increasing whey concentration. The effect of whey on pH was not significant. Whey had no effect on the rheological properties in gels while it increased the viscosity of the shampoos. In addition, dried whey had a greater effect on the viscosity increase than liquid whey. Hair shampoos and facial cleansing gels were classified as stable cosmetic products based on performed preliminary tests. It can be concluded that the use of raw whey and whey protein in cosmetics has great potential, in line with a modern »zero waste« mindset.

Ključne besede:whey, organoleptic properties, pH, proteins in cosmetics, stability testing, viscosity

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