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Sodobna perspektiva tradicionalne moške mode
ID Valenci, Sara (Author), ID Fajt, Elena (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window

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Abstract
Magistrsko delo predstavlja sodobno moško kolekcijo, ki črpa inspiracijo v ruski moderni umetnosti od poznega 19. stoletja do leta 1970 s poudarkom na konstruktivizmu, in s tem ohranja bogastvo te neoprijemljive dediščine. Kolekcija je aktualna in kljub sodobnemu videzu sodeluje z uporabnikom ter upošteva njegove zahteve. Metoda zmanjševanja razlik med klasičnimi in avantgardnimi oblačili simpatizira s teorijo konstruktivizma, ki se je razvil iz ruske ljudske umetnosti in eskaliral v strogo geometrijsko strukturo z močnim propagandnim sporočilom. Njegov esencialni pomen je spajanje umetnosti s funkcionalnostjo - oblikovalec in inženir postaneta ista oseba. Poslužujem se raziskovalnega oblikovanja, ki temelji na preizkušanju novih tekstilnih tehnik, razvitih izključno z metodo eksperimentiranja. Tehnološki procesi se osredotočajo na ustvarjanje tekstilnega reliefa in novih tiskarskih tehnik z namenom, da v tekstil vključijo dekorativni element, ne da bi okrnili njegovo funkcionalnost. Sodobna obdelava priredi vizualno podobo tekstila in združi lastnosti tradicionalnega z modernim v zaključeno celoto. Tekstovna sporočila v strogi grafični estetiki, po vzoru alternativne umetnosti iz družabnega omrežja Tumblr, služijo kot sodobni prenosnik današnjih propagandnih sporočil. Oblačila postanejo sredstvo sporazumevanja. Kolekcijo definira 7 videzov, tipične V-silhuete, ki simbolizira trikotnik - moškost. Fragmentarnost, komplementarni kontrast in uporaba primarnih barv opeva ideologijo konstruktivizma s silhuetami, ki od daleč v prostoru rišejo like. Kljub temu da so oblačila funkcionalna in namenjena vsakodnevni nošnji, trdota oblik in ostri robovi oblačilnih detajlov nasprotujejo videzu oblačil za prosti čas.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:moška moda, ruska umetnost, postsovjetska estetika, konstruktivizem, tekstilni relief, tekstilni tisk.
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
Year:2017
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-91162 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:23.03.2017
Views:2807
Downloads:814
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Contemporary perspective on traditional meswear
Abstract:
This master's thesis introduces contemporary menswear collection, with inspiration in modern Russian art from late 19th century to 1970, and as a result preserves this intangible heritage. Collection is very current and although its apperance is avantgard, it puts users needs on first place. Method of decreasing differences between traditional and contemporary apparel sympathizes with the theory of constructivism which evolved from the Russian folk-art and escalated in strictly graphical structure with a strong promotional message. The essential purpose of constructivism is to combine art and functionality - the artist and engineer are combined in one person. Design research is based on testing new textile techniques, which are developed specifically with a method of experimentating. Technological processes are focusing on creating textile terrain and new printing techniques, with intention to include decorative element in fabric without infringing its practicality. Modern treatments readjust visual apperance of textile in order to combine the quality of traditional and modern in a completed whole. The strict graphic aesthetic of prints, which inspiration originates from social networks like Tumblr, carries messages of nowadays propaganda. Clothing becomes a mean of communication. The collection is dominated by typical V-silhouette, which symbolizes the triangle - masculinity.The fragmentation, complementary contrast and the use of primary colours follows the ideology of constructivism with silhouettes that from far remind on geometric shapes. The hardness of forms and sharp edges oppose the sports leisurely look of modern materials which is a factor that makes clothes functional and, above all, wearable.

Keywords:menswear fashion, Russian art, post-soviet aesthetics, Constructivism, textile terrain, textie print.

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