In the field of cosmetology, the use of cosmetically active ingredients of biological origin, which also include proteins and peptides, is becoming increasingly popular. At the same time, the cosmetics industry is putting environmental concerns in the spotlight and following the trend of "zero waste" industry. In accordance with this approach and considering the principle of circular economy, the current possibility of linking the cosmetics and dairy industries is being considered. Large quantities of whey, a byproduct of milk processing, are produced, which is a waste material and thus puts a strain on the environment. Whey has been used for skin and hair care in the past, so the main purpose of this thesis was to develop cosmetic products with whey and evaluate their impact on selected skin parameters in vivo.
As part of the thesis, we developed two different cosmetic products with liquid whey, namely a hair shampoo and a face cleansing hydrogel, and evaluated their effects on the skin in an in vivo study on 10 female volunteers, with the approval of the Slovenian Medical Ethics Committee. During the study, we focused on key indicators of skin function: transepidermal water loss skin hydration, erythema index, melanin index and skin gloss. We developed two different systems, a shampoo and a hydrogel, both with and without integrated whey. We compared the baseline values of the mentioned parameters with the values of the parameters after a single application (20 min) of each formulation. The results showed that whey formulations reduced transepidermal water loss, reflecting an improved skin barrier. Both formulations without whey had a positive effect on skin hydration, and whey further improved the level of hydration. Shampoo with or without built-in whey did not have a significant effect on erythema index, confirming that it does not cause irritation, also no differences in melanin index were observed. We did not detect any differences in skin brightness when using a cleansing hydrogel with or without built-in whey. Based on the results, we can confirm the beneficial effect of whey on the barrier function and hydration of the skin, as well as its potential for further formulation and evaluation as a cosmetic active ingredient in skin care products.
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