Vrednotenje zaviralnega učinka izbranih rastlinskih hidrolatov na encima tirozinazo in kolagenazo

Slak, Neža (author), Kočevar Glavač, Nina (mentor), Ravnikar, Matjaž (comentor)

Namen magistrske naloge je bil raziskati potencial izbranih rastlinskih hidrolatov kot naravnih zaviralcev encimov, povezanih s procesi staranja kože. Osredotočili smo se na štiri ključne encime: tirozinazo, kolagenazo, hialuronidazo in elastazo. Ti encimi v osnovi sodelujejo pri sintezi melanina, razgradnji kolagena, razgradnji hialuronske kisline ter posledično pri zmanjševanju elastičnosti kože in nastanku hiperpigmentacij, zato hidrolati predstavljajo potencialne sestavine za razvoj naravnih, koži prijaznih kozmetičnih izdelkov z učinkom proti staranju. V raziskavo smo vključili deset hidrolatov, pridobljenih iz naslednjih rastlinskih vrst: alepski bor (Pinus halepensis), rman (Achillea millefolium), ingver (Zingiber officinale), poprova meta (Mentha × piperita), melisa (Melissa officinalis), pelargonija (Pelargonium sp.), rožmarin (Salvia rosmarinus), črni bezeg (Sambucus nigra), prava sivka (Lavandula angustifolia) in sladki pelin (Artemisia annua). Za vrednotenje zaviralne aktivnosti smo uporabili spektrofotometrične in fluorimetrične encimske teste. Aktivnost posameznega encima smo ocenili z merjenjem spremembe absorbance ali fluorescence, učinek pa smo izrazili kot odstotek relativnega zaviranja glede na kontrolo. Izvedba testiranja je bila uspešna le pri tirozinazi in kolagenazi. Vzorci so prikazali šibko zaviralno aktivnost. Pri tirozinazi so hidrolati pokazali zaviranje od 0 % do 11,4 %. Najmočneje so jo zavirali hidrolati prave sivke, pelargonije in rmana. Pri kolagenazi so hidrolati pokazali višjo zaviralno aktivnost, od 2,6 do 16 %, in sicer so bili najmočnejši hidrolati rmana, črnega bezga in ingverja. Za vgradnjo v kozmetične formulacije bi bilo najbolj smiselno uporabiti hidrolate ingverja, pelargonije in rmana, ki so v tej raziskavi izkazali najmočnejše zaviranje tako tirozinaze kot kolagenaze.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: hidrolat, zaviralna aktivnost, tirozinaza, kolagenaza, koža
• Work type: Master's thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2025
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-174327
• Publication date in RUL: 01.10.2025

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Evaluation of selected plant hydrolates’ inhibitory effects on the tyrosinase and collagenase enzymes

Abstract

The aim of the master's thesis was to research the potential of selected plant hydrolates as natural inhibitors of enzymes related to skin aging processes. The focus was on four key enzymes: tyrosinase, collagenase, hyaluronidase, and elastase. Enzymes primarily participate in the synthesis of melanin, the degradation of collagen and hyaluronic acid, and lead to a reduction in skin elasticity and hyperpigmentation, making them a potential ingredient for the development of natural, skin-friendly anti-aging cosmetics. We included ten hydrosols obtained from the following plant species: Aleppo pine (Pinus halepensis), yarrow (Achillea millefolium), ginger (Zingiber officinale), peppermint (Mentha × piperita), lemon balm (Melissa officinalis), pelargonium (Pelargonium sp.), rosemary (Salvia rosmarinus), black elder (Sambucus nigra), true lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), and sweet wormwood (Artemisia annua). For the evaluation of inhibitory activity, we used spectrophotometric and fluorimetric enzyme tests. The activity of each enzyme was assessed by measuring the change in absorbance or fluorescence, and the effect was expressed as a percentage of relative inhibition compared to the enzyme control. The testing was successful only for tyrosinase and collagenase. The samples showed weak inhibitory activity. For the first enzyme, the hydrolates showed inhibition from 0% to 11.4%, with the strongest inhibition being provided by the hydrolates of true lavender, geranium and yarrow. For the second enzyme, the hydrolates showed higher inhibitory activity, from 2.6% to 16%, with the strongest being the hydrolates of yarrow, black elderberry and ginger. For incorporation into cosmetic formulations, it would be most reasonable to use the hydrolates of ginger, geranium and yarrow, which have proven to be the strongest inhibitors of both tyrosinase and collagenase in this study.

• Keywords: hydrolate, inhibitory activity, tyrosinase, collagenase, skin