Ocena varnosti sestavin kozmetičnih izdelkov, namenjenih koži z rozaceo

Kolar, Katja (author), Sollner Dolenc, Marija (mentor)

Rozacea je kronična vnetna bolezen kože, ki prizadene lica, nos, čelo in brado. Zanjo so značilne ponavljajoče se epizode rdečice, pojava vnetnih papul in pustul ter nastanka telangiektazij. Prizadene moške in ženske med 30. in 60. letom starosti. Med vzroke za nastanek rozacee prištevamo spremenjeno mikrobioto, poškodovano kožno bariero in vpliv zunanjih dejavnikov, kot so ultravijolično sevanje, spremembe v temperaturi, pikantna hrana, alkohol in kajenje. Ker možnosti popolne ozdravitve ni, je pomembno, da se bolnik izogne sprožilnim dejavnikom ter uporablja primerne kozmetične izdelke za nego. Priporočeni so dnevno čiščenje z nežnimi čistili, vsakodnevna uporaba primernih negovalnih kozmetičnih izdelkov, zaščita pred soncem in po želji še uporaba dekorativne kozmetike, s katero rdečico prekrijemo. Namen diplomske naloge je bil pregledati kozmetične izdelke, namenjene koži z rozaceo, in na osnovi njihovih sestavin preveriti varnost teh izdelkov. Skupaj smo analizirali 60 izdelkov, ki so po podatkih proizvajalcev primerni za uporabo pri rozacei. Pregledali smo 15 izdelkov, namenjenih čiščenju, 15 izdelkov za nego in vlaženje, 15 izdelkov sončnih krem, primernih za rozaceo, in 15 dekorativnih izdelkov. Pri pregledu sestavin smo večjo pozornost namenili alergenim sestavinam, to so dišave, barvila, konzervansi in UV-filtri. Med dišavami sta se najpogosteje pojavili citronelol in linalol, ki smo ju zasledili v 5 (8,3 %) izdelkih. Največkrat uporabljeni pigmenti so bili železovi oksidi rdeče in rumene barve, ki smo jih našli v 15 (25 %) izdelkih. Med konzervansi je bil najpogosteje uporabljen fenoksietanol v 27 (45 %) in med UV-filtri bis-etilheksiloksifenol metoksi fenil triazin, ki se je uporabil v 13 (21,7 %) izdelkih. Izpostavili smo tudi azelainsko kislino, ki ima dokazan učinek na rozaceo. V izdelkih smo našli njen derivat z glicinom, to je azeloildiglicinat, ki je bil prisoten v 4 (6,7 %) izdelkih. Po končnem pregledu izdelkov smo tako ugotovili, da so večinoma primerni za uporabo na koži z rozaceo, večjo pozornost pri izbiri izdelkov bi priporočili le pri izdelkih za zaščito pred soncem in dekorativnimi izdelki.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: barvila, dišave, konzervansi, kozmetični izdelki, kozmetično aktivne sestavine, koža, rozacea, UV-filtri, varnost
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2025
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-174231
• Publication date in RUL: 30.09.2025

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Safety assessment of the ingredients in cosmetic products intended for skin with rosacea

Abstract

Rosacea is a chronic inflammatory skin disease that affects the cheeks, nose, forehead, and chin. It is characterized by recurring episodes of redness, the appearance of inflammatory papules and pustules, and the formation of telangiectasia. It affects both men and women between the ages of 30 and 60. The causes of rosacea include altered microbiota, a damaged skin barrier, and the influence of external factors such as ultraviolet radiation, temperature changes, spicy food, alcohol, and smoking. Since complete recovery is not possible, it is important for the patient to avoid triggering factors and use appropriate cosmetic products for skincare. Recommended care includes daily cleansing with gentle cleansers, daily use of suitable cosmetic skincare products, sun protection, and, optionally, the use of decorative cosmetics to cover the redness. The purpose of the thesis was to review cosmetic products intended for skin with rosacea and to evaluate the safety of these products based on their ingredients. We analyzed a total of 60 products that, according to manufacturers, are suitable for use in rosacea. We reviewed 15 cleansing products, 15 care and moisturizing products, 15 sunscreens suitable for rosacea, and 15 decorative products. In the ingredient review, special attention was paid to allergenic ingredients, namely fragrances, colorants, preservatives, and UV filters. Among the fragrances, citronellol and linalool appeared most frequently, found in 5 (8.3%) of the products. The most commonly used pigments were red and yellow iron oxides, found in 15 (25%) of the products. Among preservatives, phenoxyethanol was most frequently used, in 27 (45%) of the products, and among UV filters, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine was used in 13 (21.7%) of the products. We also highlighted azelaic acid, which has a proven effect on rosacea. In the products, we found its derivative with glycine, azeloyl diglycinate, which was present in 4 (6.7%) of the products. After completing the review, we concluded that the majority of the products are suitable for use on rosacea-prone skin, while greater attention in product selection is recommended only for sunscreens and decorative cosmetics.

• Keywords: colorants, fragrances, preservatives, cosmetic products, cosmetically active ingredients, skin, rosacea, UV filters, safety