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Lastnosti pletiv iz svilenih mešanic
ID Gabrovšek, Sabina (Author), ID Zupin, Živa (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window

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Abstract
Svila se v pletilstvu uporablja že zelo dolgo. Prvo poznano svileno pleteno oblačilo so bile nogavice. Zaradi svoje cene in zahtevnega vzdrževanja ni pogosto uporabljena za vsakodnevna oblačila. S ponovnim uvajanjem naravnih trajnostnih materialov se ponovno raziskujejo lastnosti svile in njenih mešanic za različne namene uporabe, tako za oblačilne in dekorativne namene kot za projektiranje pletiv in pletenin s specifičnim namenom uporabe, kot so športna oblačila. Zaradi cene in lastnosti svilo velikokrat uporabljamo v različnih mešanicah z naravnimi in sintetičnimi vlakni, od katerih ima vsaka dobre in slabe lastnosti. V diplomskem delu smo raziskovali lastnosti pletiv iz različnih svilenih mešanic (svila/volna, liocel/svila, bombaž/akril/svila in bombaž/svila). Delež svile je bil, razen v mešanici svila/volna, 30-odstoten, v mešanici svila/volna pa 70-odstoten. Pletiva smo spletli v štirih različnih levo-desnih vezavah: enostavni levo-desni, vozlasti, pike in lovilni vezavi. Pletiva smo 5-krat oprali ter ugotavljali spremembe dimenzijske stabilnosti po pranju, spremembe horizontalne in vertikalne gostote, debelino in ploščinsko maso. Raziskovali smo prepustnostne lastnosti, kot sta pretok zraka in toplotna prevodnost, vpojnostne lastnosti ter natezne lastnosti in piling pletiv. Ugotavljali smo vpliv surovinske sestave in pletene strukture na končne lastnosti. Ugotovili smo, da ima surovinska sestava večji vpliv na končne lastnosti kot struktura pletiva. S pranjem se pletiva krčijo, najbolj po prvem pranju, kar vpliva tudi na dimenzijsko stabilnost in končne lastnosti. Največje spremembe dimenzijske stabilnosti so vidne pri pletivih iz mešanice svila/volna, kar vpliva tudi na ostale lastnosti, kot sta pretok zraka in toplotna prevodnost. Dimenzijska stabilnost se najmanj spremeni pri pletivih iz mešanice bombaž/akril/svila. Najbolj vpojna so pletiva v mešanici liocel/svila.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:svila, svilene mešanice, pletiva, dimenzijska stabilnost, udobnostne lastnosti, fizikalne lastnosti, mehanske lastnosti.
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
Year:2025
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-172060 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:05.09.2025
Views:351
Downloads:132
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Properties of silk blend knitted fabrics
Abstract:
Silk has been used for knitting for a very long time. The first known knitted garment made of silk was a pair of stockings. Due to its price and challenging care requirements, it is not often used for everyday wear. With the reintroduction of natural, sustainable materials, the properties of silk and its blends are once again being explored for various purposes, including clothing and decorative applications, as well as for designing fabrics and knitwear with a specific function, such as sportswear. Due to its price and properties, silk is often used in various blends with natural and synthetic fibres, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages. In the diploma thesis, the properties of fabrics made from different silk blends (silk/wool, lyocell/silk, cotton/acrylic/silk, and cotton/silk) were analysed. In the silk/wool blend, the silk content was 70%, while in the other blends it was 30%. The fabrics were produced in four different knit structures: Single Jersey, Single Piqué, Single Fang, and Honeycomb. The knitted fabrics were washed five times and changes in dimensional stability, horizontal and vertical density, thickness and mass per square metre were determined. Permeability properties such as air permeability, thermal conductivity, and absorption, as well as tensile strength and pilling resistance, were analysed. The influence of the material composition and the knitted structure on the final properties was determined. It was found that the composition of the raw material has a greater influence on the final properties than the structure of the knitted fabric. Washing causes the knit to shrink, especially after the first wash, which also affects dimensional stability and final properties. The greatest changes in dimensional stability were observed in silk/wool blend fabrics, which also affected other properties such as air permeability and thermal conductivity. Dimensional stability was least affected in cotton/acrylic/silk blends. Fabrics made from lyocell/silk blends were the most absorbent.

Keywords:silk, silk blend, knitted fabrics, dimensional stability, comfort properties, physical properties, mechanical properties

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