Retinols and other retinoids are widely incorporated into various cosmetic products due to their broad-spectrum efficacy in addressing both acne-prone and aging skin. Despite their proven effectiveness, their use is often limited by undesirable side effects, such as irritation and erythema. As a result, consumer demand for alternative cosmetically active ingredients with similar efficacy and enhanced skin tolerance is on the rise.
In the thesis, we conducted a review of six cosmetically active ingredients marketed as retinol alternatives, using the online platform Global Cosmetic Industry. The selected ingredients were: Revinage, NovoRetin, bakuchiol, BakuLipid, Bakusylan, and Stevisse. These ingredients exhibit retinol-like activity either through functional or structural similarity or by promoting increased levels of naturally occurring retinoic acid via different mechanisms. In the reviewed clinical studies, these alternatives demonstrated results comparable to retinoids. However, since most of the studies were conducted by manufacturers, concerns regarding potential bias in the reported outcomes remain.
Due to their improved photostability and skin tolerance, these alternatives can be applied twice daily, whilst retinoids can only be applied once. Our market analysis of cosmetic products containing these ingredients revealed that they are most commonly incorporated into skincare formulations, particularly serums and creams. Additionally, several products on the market were found to combine multiple retinoid alternatives, or to include such alternatives alongside conventional retinoids. Such formulations may provide synergistic effects, enabling the use of lower concentrations of actives while maintaining efficacy and reducing the likelihood of side effects. Furthermore, some of the ingredients contribute to the increased stability of retinoids in formulations due to their antioxidant properties.
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