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Kontroverzna ženska moda v 19. in zgodnjem 20. stoletju : magistrsko delo
ID Zupančič, Anja (Author), ID Selišnik, Irena (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window

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Abstract
Magistrsko delo obravnava tri kose ženske garderobe 19. in zgodnjega 20. stoletja, ki so bili disproporcionalno pogosto deležni javne obravnave in posmeha – korzet oz. steznik, krinolina in hlačno krilo oz. ženske hlače. V delu so oblačila umeščena v kontekst mode in družbe tega obdobja s poudarkom na javnem mnenju, izraženem v časopisju Britanskega otočja in slovensko govorečega območja Habsburške monarhije ter kasnejše Avstro-Ogrske. Za lažje razumevanje pojava in pomena teh treh oblačil je predstavljen razvoj mode in oblačilne kulture v zahodnem svetu od konca 18. stoletja do prve svetovne vojne. Znotraj predstavitve se podrobneje posvetimo vsakemu izmed treh kontroverznih oblačil, posebno poglavje je namenjeno tudi prodoru mode na današnje slovensko ozemlje in značilnostim oblačenja v slovenskih zgodovinskih deželah. V analizi angleškega in slovenskega časopisja se delo ukvarja z različnimi načini pisanja in poročanja o korzetih, krinolinah in hlačnih krilih ter z razlogi za kritiko in hvalo le teh. Sledeča primerjava časopisja podrobneje preučuje, kako so se kritike razlikovale med britanskim otočjem in današnjim slovenskim ozemljem, ter išče podobnosti in razlike med kritikami posameznih kosov oblačil. Delo prav tako naslavlja vprašanje, zakaj je moda pravzaprav sploh kontroverzna in kako je to povezano s položajem žensk v 19. in zgodnjem 20. stoletju.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:ženska moda, korzet, krinolina, ženske hlače, hlačno krilo, kontroverznost, časopisje, oblačilna kultura
Work type:Master's thesis/paper
Typology:2.09 - Master's Thesis
Organization:FF - Faculty of Arts
Place of publishing:Bled
Publisher:A. Zupančič
Year:2025
Number of pages:76 str.
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-170715 This link opens in a new window
UDC:94:685.34.012"18/19"
COBISS.SI-ID:242622979 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:13.07.2025
Views:697
Downloads:153
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Controversial women's fashion in the 19th and early 20th century
Abstract:
This master's thesis discusses three separate pieces of women’s wear from the 19th and early 20th century which have received disproportional amounts of public scrutiny and derision – the corset, the crinoline, and women’s trousers or jupe culottes. The thesis contextualizes the garments within the fashion and society of their time, with emphasis on public opinion voiced in newspapers from the British Isles as well as from the Slovene-speaking parts of the Habsburg monarchy and later Austria-Hungary. In order to better understand the emergence and meaning of these three garments, an overview of the development of fashion from the late 18th century up until the first world war is provided. Each of the controversial garments is discussed in detail, with a separate chapter dedicated to the spread of fashion throughout the territory of present-day Slovenia and the distinctions of dress in Slovenia’s historical regions. The analysis delves into different ways in which corsets, crinolines, and women’s trousers have been written about, along with the various reasons for their scorn and praise. The following comparison of newspaper articles closely studies how criticism of the garments differed between English and Slovene periodicals, and searches for discrepancies and similarities among the criticisms of each garment. The thesis also addresses the question of why fashion is controversial in the first place in addition to how that pertains to the position of women in the 19th and early 20th century.

Keywords:women’s fashion, corset, crinoline, women’s trousers, jupe-culotte, controversy, newspapers, dress culture

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