"Upam, da se mi je posrečilo ustvariti to, kar je potrebno, da ostane za človekom dober spomin. Več pač ne moreš doseči v življenju!" : kratek opis življenjske poti in (plezalnega) življenja Mire Marko Debelak Deržaj s poudarkom na plezanje v Direktni smeri v Špiku in nesreči v Triglavu ter seznamom njenih tur

Šuligoj, Julija (author), Mikša, Peter (author)

Mira Marko Debelak - Deržaj (1904–1948) je bila izjemna alpinistka, ki je s svojimi dosežki pomembno zaznamovala slovenski alpinizem. Njen izjemen vzpon v navidezno nepreplezljivi severni steni Špika, podvig, ki ga je leta 1926 opravila s Stankom Tominškom, je po kritičnem obdobju ponovno oživil slovenski alpinizem. Kot članica TK Skala je z različnimi soplezalci plezala v slovenskih Alpah in sosedstvu. Kljub oviram, med katerimi je bila skoraj tragična nesreča na Triglavu, je Mira Marko s predanostjo in odločnostjo utrdila svoj položaj med elitnimi alpinisti svojega časa. V članku predstaviva alpinistično življenje Debelak, ture, ki jih je opravila, in smeri, ki jih je preplezala. Poudarek je na uspehu v severni steni Špika ter na nesreči Eda Deržaja, ko sta skušala preplezati prvenstveno smer v Triglavu. Pri slednji preučiva poročanje slovenskih časnikov o nesreči, razpravo o strmi turistiki, ki se je ob tem razvila, in epilog na sodišču.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: alpinizem, gorništvo, Špik, Triglav
• Work type: Article
• Typology: 1.01 - Original Scientific Article
• Organization: FF - Faculty of Arts
• Publication status: Published
• Publication version: Version of Record
• Year: 2023
• Number of pages: Str. 67-113
• Numbering: [Letn.] 6, [št.] 1
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-165622
• UDC: 796.5(497.4)
• ISSN on article: 2630-3426
• COBISS.SI-ID: 171006979

Copyright

Licenca Creative Commons je navedena na pristajalni strani članka (glej izvorni URL): https://retrospektive-journal.org/revija/retrospektive-letnik-vi-stevilka-1/clanek/upam-da-se-mi-je-posrecilo-ustvariti-to-kar-je-potrebno-da-ostane-za-clovekom-dober-spomin-vec-pac-ne-mores-doseci-v-zivljenju/ (Datum opombe: 10. 12. 2024)

• Publication date in RUL: 10.12.2024

Record is a part of a journal

• Title: Retrospektive : znanstvena revija za zgodovinopisje in sorodna področja
• Publisher: Združenje za promocijo kulturne dediščine, raziskav in novih tehnologij- Retrospektive
• ISSN: 2630-3426
• COBISS.SI-ID: 297275392

Licences

• License: CC BY-NC 4.0, Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International
• Link: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc/4.0/
• Description: A creative commons license that bans commercial use, but the users don’t have to license their derivative works on the same terms.

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: "I hope I was lucky enough to create what is necessary to leave behind a good memory. You can't achieve more in life!" : a brief description of the life path and (climbing) life of Mira Marko Debelak Deržaj with an emphasis on climbing in the Direct route in Špik and the accident in Triglav and a list of her tours

Abstract

Mira Marko Debelak-Deržaj (1904-1948) was an exceptional mountaineer who left a significant impact on Slovenian mountaineering through her remarkable achievements. Her extraordinary ascent of the seemingly unclimbable north face of Špik, which she accomplished in 1926 with Stanko Tominšek, revitalized Slovenian alpinism during a critical period. As a member of the TK Skala, she embarked on numerous climbing expeditions in the Slovenian Alps and beyond, overcoming various challenges along the way. Despite facing a near-tragic accident on Triglav, Mira Marko‘s unwavering dedication and determination solidified her position among the elite alpinists of her time. The article delves into the mountaineering journey of Debelak, documenting the tours she completed and the routes she conquered. Special emphasis is given to her triumph on the north face of Špik and the unfortunate accident involving Edo Deržaj while attempting the first route on Triglav. Furthermore, the article explores the media coverage of the accident by Slovenian newspapers, the ensuing discourse on alpinism, and the subsequent legal proceedings.

• Keywords: alpinism, mountaineering, Špik, Triglav