Pregled površinsko aktivnih snovi in zgoščeval v šamponih za nego različnih tipov las

Knafelc, Nikita (author), Ahlin Grabnar, Pegi (mentor)

Lasje predstavljajo pomemben del človekove podobe, zato za njihovo nego uporabljamo ustrezne kozmetične izdelke. Najpomembnejši izdelki za nego las so šamponi, ki nežno očistijo in negujejo lase ter lasišče. Poznamo več vrst šamponov, od katerih je vsaka namenjena negi različnega tipa las. Vsak tip las namreč zahteva malenkost drugačne sestavine. Najpomembnejše snovi za čiščenje las so površinsko aktivne snovi (PAS). Ostale pomembne sestavine v šamponih so zgoščevala, emolienti, humektanti, konzervansi, snovi za doseganje ustrezne pH vrednosti, parfumi, barvila in kozmetično aktivne sestavine. Za namen pisanja diplomskega dela smo proučili 60 šamponov, ki smo jih našli v drogerijah ter na spletnih straneh. Razdelili smo jih v pet skupin, glede na tip las, kateremu so namenjeni. Osredotočili smo se na štiri osnovne skupine PAS in pogostost njihovega pojavljanja v šamponih za različne tipe las. V šamponih za suhe oz. poškodovane lase in barvane lase, ki potrebujejo intenzivnejšo nego, smo proučili še emoliente in humektante. Ugotovili smo, da so najbolj raznolike neionske PAS s 24 različnimi vrstami. Medtem ko so najpogostejše anionske PAS, predvsem natrijev lavret sulfat. Ta PAS je prisotna v 49 šamponih, v 48 od teh na 2. mestu seznama INCI, kar jo označi kot primarno PAS. Primarne PAS imajo največjo čistilno moč, vendar lahko dražijo kožo, zato se jim dodajajo neionske ali amfoterne PAS za ublažitev učinka. Kokamidopropil betain je bil opažen v 49 šamponih, v 42 skupaj z natrijevim lavret sulfatom. Pri večini šamponov se PAS pojavi na 2. mestu seznama INCI. Običajno je to anionska PAS. Vse vrste šamponov pa v povprečju vsebujejo enako število PAS v svoji sestavi. V šamponih smo proučili tudi zgoščevala, najpogosteje je kot zgoščevalo uporabljen natrijev klorid, ki je prisoten v 58 šamponih. Podrobneje smo se osredotočili na šampone za nego suhih oz. poškodovanih las in barvanih las. Preverili smo najpogosteje uporabljene emoliente in humektante. Pri pregledu 24 šamponov se je kot humektant najpogosteje pojavil glicerol, med emolienti pa se je največkrat pojavilo ricinusovo olje. V primerjavi z ostalimi vrstami šamponov sta ti dve v povprečju vsebovali več emolientov, vendar manj humektantov.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: šampon za lase, površinsko aktivna snov, zgoščevalo, emolient, humektant.
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2024
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-161394
• Publication date in RUL: 11.09.2024

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: A review of surfactants and thickeners in shampoos for different hair type care

Abstract

Hair is an important part of a person's image, so it's essential to use the right products for hair care. The most important hair care products are shampoos, which gently cleanse and nourish the hair and scalp. There are several types of shampoos, each aimed at caring for a different hair type, which requires different ingredients. The most important substances for hair cleansing are surfactants. Other important ingredients in shampoos are. Thickeners, emollients, humectants, preservatives, pH adjusters, perfumes, coloring agents, and cosmetically active ingredients. In this diploma thesis, we reviewed 60 shampoos found in drugstores and websites. We divided them into 5 groups, according to the hair type they were intended for. We focused on the 4 basic groups of surfactants and their frequency of occurrence in shampoos for different hair types. In shampoos for dry or damaged hair and colored hair that need more intensive care, we also looked at emollients and humectants. Non-ionic surfactants are the most diverse, with 24 different types. While anionic surfactants, especially sodium laureth sulfate, are the most common. This surfactant is present in 49 shampoos, 48 of them in the 2nd position on the INCI list, which identifies it as a primary surfactant. Primary surfactants have the highest cleaning power but can be irritating to the skin, so non-ionic or amphoteric surfactants are added to them to mitigate the effect. Cocamidopropyl betaine was observed in 49 shampoos, in 42 together with sodium laureth sulfate. In most shampoos, the PAS appears in the 2nd position of the INCI list and is usually an anionic surfactant. However, all shampoo types contain on average the same number of surfactants in their composition. We also looked at thickeners in shampoos, the most commonly used thickener being sodium chloride, which is present in 58 shampoos. We focused in more detail on shampoos for the care of dry or damaged hair and colored hair. We looked at the most commonly used emollients and humectants. In a review of 24 shampoos, glycerol was the most frequent humectant and castor oil was the most frequent emollient. Compared to the other shampoo types, these two contained on average more emollients but fewer humectants.

• Keywords: hair shampoo, surfactant, thickener, emollient, humectant.