Utility of video analysis and expert modelling for technique development in novice sport climbers : a randomized controlled study

Blagus, Rok (author), Leskošek, Bojan (author), Okršlar, Luka (author), Vreček, Nace (author), Debevec, Tadej (author)

Sport climbing is a multifaceted sport that also requires appropriate techniques to optimize movements. As augmented feedback is known to facilitate motor learning, we investigated the utility of adding video analysis and expert modelling to standardized verbal feedback for the acquisition of three climbing-specific techniques (drop knee, heel hook and high step). Twenty-six novice climbers (12 women) completed two testing sessions before and after a training intervention that consisted of three coached climbing sessions targeting the three techniques. Participants were randomly assigned to a control group, which solely received standardized verbal feedback or an experimental group that additionally received standardized video analysis and expert modelling using the Dartfish tablet application. Video recordings were subsequently evaluated by two climbing experts on a 7-point scale. The expert scores were higher in the experimental than in the control group for the high step (causal total effect (CTE) 0.38, 95% confidence interval (CI) [0.06, 0.68]). Improvements for the drop knee (CTE = 0.12, 95% CI [−0.24, 0.48]) and heel hook (CTE = −0.05, 95% CI [−0.42, 0.31]) were similar in both groups. For the drop knee, we, however, observed a positive causal direct effect (CDE = 0.38, 95% CI [0.07, 0.68]), which was comparable to that observed for the high step but also a negative causal mediator effect via the perceived difficulty (CME = −0.26, 95% CI [−0.51, −0.04]). Compared to verbal feedback solely, the addition of video analysis and expert modelling might facilitate the acquisition of certain climbing techniques, such as high step, in novice climbers.

• Language: English
• Keywords: sport, augmented feedback, gender, movement analysis, skill learning
• Work type: Article
• Typology: 1.01 - Original Scientific Article
• Organization: FŠ - Faculty of Sport; MF - Faculty of Medicine
• Publication status: Published
• Publication version: Version of Record
• Year: 2024
• Number of pages: Str. 355–367
• Numbering: Vol. 19, iss. 1
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-154251-6791e646-660e-455a-b920-002ad31be92d
• UDC: 796.01
• ISSN on article: 2048-397X
• DOI: 10.1177/17479541231152548
• COBISS.SI-ID: 140667651
• Publication date in RUL: 05.02.2024

Record is a part of a journal

• Title: International journal of sports science & coaching
• Publisher: SAGE
• ISSN: 2048-397X
• COBISS.SI-ID: 525537561

Licences

• License: CC BY 4.0, Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International
• Link: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/
• Description: This is the standard Creative Commons license that gives others maximum freedom to do what they want with the work as long as they credit the author.

Secondary language

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: šport, razširjene povratne informacije, spol, analiza gibanja, učenje spretnosti

Projects

• Funder: ARRS - Slovenian Research Agency
• Project number: P3-0154
• Name: Metodologija za analizo podatkov v medicini

• Funder: ARRS - Slovenian Research Agency
• Project number: N5-0152
• Name: Mehanizmi hipoksične (in)tolerance pri predčasno rojenih posameznikih