Barvanje lanu z zelišči ljudskega zdravilstva za oblikovanje tekstilij z antioksidativnimi lastnostmi

Vujović, Filip (author), Gorjanc, Marija (mentor)

Številne snovi, ki se uporabljajo pri masovni proizvodnji tekstilij so lahko nevarne tako za okolje kot zdravje ljudi. Kemične snovi, ki so nanešene na tekstilije (npr. zaviralci gorenja, sintetična barvila, formaldehid, idr.) povzročajo pri občutljivih ljudeh dermatološke težave, kot so alergijske reakcije in ekcemi. Onesnaženost okolja pa ni povezana samo z uporabo nekaterih kemičnih snovi, temveč tudi z mikroplastiko, kjer so glavni krivec sintetična vlakna. Glavni namen magistrske naloge je bilo barvanje in funkcionalizacija lanene tkanine z vodnimi ekstrakti treh zelišč ljudskega zdravilstva (rman (Achillea millefolium), smilj (Helichrysum arenarium) in srčna moč (Potentilla erecta L.)) s ciljem razvoja okolju prijazne tekstilije, ki bo nudila tudi zaščito pred ultravijoličnim (UV) sevanjem in imela antioksidativno delovanje. V prvem delu raziskave je bila proučena temperatura ekstrakcije in koncentracija ekstraktov. Predobdelava lanene tkanine s hitozanom je bila uporabljena za povečanje adsorpcije učinkovin vodnih ekstraktov. V drugem delu pa se je s kombinacijo zelišč v ekstrakciji ugotavljal sinergistični učinek na zaščitne lastnosti tkanine. Tekstilje se je analiziralo za barvo (CIELAB, K/S) na refleksijskem spektrofotometru Datacolor, UV zaščitni faktor (UZF) in antioksidativno delovanje (AA) po metodi DPPH pa na UV/Vis sprektrofotometru. Iz rezultatov je razvidno, da ima temperatura ekstrakcije in koncentracija zelišč bistven vpliv na učinkovitost ekstraktov nanesenih na laneno tkanino, da ima mešanje zelišč z nižjimi koncentracijami odličen sinergističen učinek na barvo in funkcionalne lastnosti tkanine, kot pa uporaba ekstrakta enega zelišča in da obdelava tkanine s hitozanom poveča adsorpcijo ekstraktov in posledično boljše funkcionalne lastnosti tkanine. Najbolj optimalna kombinacija barvanja lanene tkanine je bila ekstrakcija kombinacije zelišč rman, smilj in srčna moč, kjer je bila temperatura ekstrakcije rmana in srčne moči 120 °C, pri smilju 100 °C in koncentracija posamičnega zelišča 10 g/l. Tkanine so imele globino obarvanja K/S = 2,311, UZF = 28,50, AA = 93,73 %. Poleg obarvanosti in zaščitnih lastnosti, so imele tekstilije tudi prijeten vonj.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: barvanje, ljudsko zdravilstvo, lan, zelišča, trajnost, antioksidativno delovanje, zaščita pred UV sevanjem.
• Work type: Master's thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2023
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-151621
• Publication date in RUL: 12.10.2023

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Dyeing of linen with folk medicine herbs for designing textiles with antioxidant properties

Abstract

Many substances used in the mass production of textiles can be hazardous to both the environment and human health. Chemical substances used in textiles (e.g. flame retardants, synthetic dyes, formaldehyde, etc.) cause dermatological problems such as allergic reactions and eczema in sensitive people. Environmental pollution is not only related to the use of certain chemical substances, but also to microplastics, synthetic fibers being the main culprit. The main objective of the master's thesis was to dye and functionalize linen fabric with aqueous extracts of three folk medicine herbs (yarrow (Achillea millefolium), sandy everlasting (Helichrysum arenarium) and tormentil (Potentilla erecta L.)) with the aim of developing environmentally friendly textiles that also provide protection from ultraviolet (UV) radiation and have antioxidant activity. In the first part of the research, the extraction temperature and concentration of the extracts were studied. Pretreatment of the linen fabric with chitosan was used to increase the adsorption of the active ingredients of the aqueous extracts. In the second part, the combination of herbs during extraction was found to have a synergistic effect on the protective properties of the fabric. The textiles were analyzed for color using a Datacolor reflectance spectrophotometer (CIELAB, K/S), UV/Vis spectrophotometer for UV protection factor (UPF) and antioxidant activity using the DPPH method. The results show that the extraction temperature and herb concentration have a significant effect on the efficacy of the extracts applied to linen fabric, that mixing herbs with lower concentrations has an excellent synergistic effect on the color and functional properties of the fabric than using a single herb extract, and that treating the fabric with chitosan improves the adsorption of the extracts and consequently the functional properties of the fabric. The most optimal combination for dyeing linen fabric was the extraction of a combination of the herbs yarrow, sandy everlasting, tormentil, where the extraction temperature of yarrow and tormentil extracts was 120 °C, for sandy everlasting 100 °C and the concentration of each herb 10 g/l. The fabrics had the depth of staining K/S = 2.311, UPF = 28.50, AA = 93.73 %. Besides the color and protective properties, the textiles also had a pleasant smell.

• Keywords: dyeing, folk medicine, linen, herbs, sustainability, antioxidant, UV protection