Vrednotenje vpliva površinsko aktivnih snovi v šamponih s sirotko na transepidermalno izgubo vode in vitro

Mikić, Sandra (author), Gašperlin, Mirjana (mentor), Bjelošević Žiberna, Maja (co-mentor)

Šamponi so kozmetični izdelki za lase, v katere vgrajujemo različne površinsko aktivne snovi z namenom odstranitve umazanije z las in lasišča. Površinsko aktivne snovi vplivajo tudi na stabilnost pene in viskoznost formulacije. Poleg površinsko aktivnih snovi se v kozmetične izdelke za lase vgrajujejo tudi proteini in peptidi. Vse pomembnejša je sirotka, ki je bogata z beljakovinami in je sposobna vezave vode, s čimer vzdržuje ustrezno integriteto kože. V šamponih na trgu je zelo razširjena površinsko aktivna snov kokamiddietanolamin. Spojine s kokamiddietanolaminom so potencialno kancerogene, zato jo želijo proizvajalci nadomestiti z drugimi, varnejšimi površinsko aktivnimi snovmi. Poznane so zmesi večih površinsko aktivnih snovi, kot so STEPAN-MILD LSB, LATHANOL LAL POWDER, ALPHA-STEP PC-48, AMPHOSOL HCG in STEPAN MILD GCC. V diplomski nalogi smo pripravili 8 formulacij šamponov z omenjenimi površinsko aktivnimi snovmi. Izbrali smo 5 najbolj optimalnih glede na organoleptične lastnosti in viskoznost. Vrednotili smo vpliv formulacij šamponov z in brez vgrajene sirotke na transepidermalno izgubo vode. Za površinsko aktivne snovi je značilno, da so običajno v previsokih koncentracijah dražeče za kožo, zato smo testirali tudi raztopine površinsko aktivnih snovi v takšnih koncentracijah, kot so bile vključene v formulacije. Testirali smo tudi vpliv same sirotke. Transepidermalno izgubo vode smo merili z napravo Tewameter TM 300 na modelu prašičje kože in vitro, ki smo jo vpeli v Franzovo difuzijsko celico. Ugotovili smo, da šampon C z vgrajeno sirotko najbolj draži kožo, najverjetneje zato, ker vsebuje 30 % LSB, za katero smo dokazali, da izsušuje kožo in jo je v kozmetične izdelke potrebno vključiti v nižji koncentraciji. Vsi ostali šamponi so na koži izkazali neiritantno delovanje, vseeno pa prednjači šampon A s sirotko, ki je kožo najbolj navlažil. Izmed vseh testiranih raztopin površinsko aktivnih snovi je 1 procentna raztopina GCC izkazala najbolj blagodejen vpliv na kožno bariero, ker je najbolj znižala transepidermalno izgubo vode. Tudi sama sirotka je izboljšala kožno bariero in z vgradnjo le-te smo vplivali na boljši učinek formulacij na kožo. Rezultati testiranja raztopin površinsko aktivnih snovi in šamponov, ki jih vsebujejo, omogočajo zaključek, da predstavljajo alternativo za potencialno kancerogeno površinsko aktivno snov, kokamiddietanolamin.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: koža, šamponi, površinsko aktivne snovi, sirotka, draženje, transepidermalna izguba vode, Franzova difuzijska celica
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2023
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-149160
• Publication date in RUL: 05.09.2023

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: In vitro evaluation of the effect of surfactants in whey-based shampoos on transepidermal water loss

Abstract

Shampoos are cosmetic hair products in which various surfactants are incorporated in order to remove dirt from the hair and scalp. They also affect foam stability and formulation viscosity. In addition to surfactants, proteins and peptides are also incorporated into hair cosmetic products. Whey, which is rich in protein, is becoming increasingly important and shows the ability to bind water and thus maintains the proper integrity of the skin. Cocamide diethanolamine is a widely used surfactant on the market. Compounds with cocamide diethanolamine are potentially carcinogenic, therefore manufacturers want to replace it with other, safer surfactants. Mixtures of several surfactants are known, such as STEPAN-MILD LSB, LATHANOL LAL POWDER, ALPHA-STEP PC-48, AMPHOSOL HCG and STEPAN-MILD GCC. In this thesis, we prepared 8 formulations of shampoos with the mentioned surfactants. We selected the 5 most optimal in terms of organoleptic characteristics and viscosity. We evaluated the influence of formulations with and without incorporated whey on transepidermal water loss. It is typical for surfactants to be irritating to the skin in excessively high concentrations and because of that we also tested solutions of surfactants in such concentrations as were included in the formulations. We also tested the influence of whey itself. Transepidermal water loss was measured using the Tewameter TM 300 device on a pig skin model in vitro, which was embedded in a Franz cell. We concluded that whey-based shampoo C was the most irritating to the skin, potentially because it contains 30% LSB, which we have measured to be the most irritating surfactant and therefore should be included in cosmetic products at a lower concentration. All the other shampoos showed a non-irritating effect on the skin, but whey-based shampoo A takes the lead, with the most moisturizing effect on the skin. Out of all the surfactant solutions tested, the 1 percent GCC solution showed the most beneficial effect on the skin barrier, whereas it has reduced transepidermal water loss the most. Whey itself has also improved the skin barrier, and by incorporating it, we have contributed to a better effect of the formulations on the skin. The results of testing solutions of surfactants and shampoos containing them allow to conclude that they represent an alternative to a potentially carcinogenic surfactant, cocamide diethanolamine.

• Keywords: skin, shampoos, surfactants, serum, irritation, transepidermal water loss, Franz diffuzion cell