Vpliv hidrogela z izvlečkom bele jelke (Abies alba) na senzorične lastnosti in hidratacijo kože

Medvešek, Maruša (author), Kočevar Glavač, Nina (mentor), Bjelošević Žiberna, Maja (co-mentor)

Hidratacija kože je eden izmed glavnih dejavnikov, ki vplivajo na zdrav in sijoč videz kože. Zaradi zunanjih in notranjih dejavnikov lahko vsebnost vode v koži upade, kar vodi do suhe, neprožne in razdražene kože. Kot preventivo oz. nego takšne kože uporabljamo kozmetične izdelke z vlažilnim delovanjem. V sklopu diplomske naloge smo s pomočjo ankete pridobili podatke o splošnem poznavanju naravne kozmetike in hidratacije kože ter rabe kozmetičnih izdelkov za vlaženje kože. Izdelali smo testni hidrogel z izvlečkom lesa bele jelke (Abies alba) in placebo hidrogel brez izvlečka. 30 prostovoljcev je tri tedne vrednotilo senzorične lastnosti hidrogelov, vzporedno pa smo na desetih prostovoljcih izvajali meritve sijaja, hidratacije, melaninskega in eritemskega indeksa ter pH kože. V okviru senzoričnega vrednotenja smo ugotovili, da sta večini prostovoljcev hidrogela ustrezala. Bolj priljubljen je bil placebo hidrogel, zaradi nežnejšega vonja in nevtralne barve. Konsistenca obeh hidrogelov je ugajala večini prostovoljcev, prav tako mazljivost ter vpojnost hidrogelov. Po treh tednih uporabe pa so opazili boljši učinek na koži ob uporabi testnega hidrogela z izvlečkom lesa bele jelke. Največjo spremembo so opazili pri mehkobi kože, večinsko pa so bili mnenja, da se je izboljšala tudi navlaženost kože. Z meritvami smo ugotovili, da se je hidratacija kože po tretjem tednu uporabe tako testnega kot placebo hidrogela povišala, vendar ne izrazito glede na vrsto hidrogela. Sijaj kože se bistveno ni povečal, kar sovpada z rezultati vprašalnikov. Z meritvami melaninskega in eritemskega indeksa smo glede na Fitzpatrickovo lestvico opredelili fototip kože prostovoljcev ter opazovali vpliv testnega hidrogela na vsebnost melanina v koži in vpliv na eritem oz. rdečino. Testni hidrogel ni imel niti izrazitega niti negativnega učinka na rdečino obraza, prav tako ne na vsebnost melanina v koži. Vrednotili smo tudi pH kože na obrazu, natančneje na predelu ličnih kosti. Vrednosti so bile skozi celotno izvajanje meritev primerljive, s čimer smo zadovoljni, saj ne želimo, da bi se te vrednosti drastično spreminjale.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: hidratacija kože, hidrogel, izvleček lesa bele jelke (Abies alba), vlažilne sestavine, vrednotenje
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2023
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-148702
• Publication date in RUL: 30.08.2023

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Impact of a hydrogel with silver fir extract (Abies alba) on skin sensory properties and hydration

Abstract

Skin hydration is one of the main factors affecting the health and radiant appearance of the skin. Due to external and internal factors, the skin's water content can decrease, leading to dry, inflexible, and irritated skin. As prevention or care of such skin, we use cosmetic products with a moisturizing effect. As part of the thesis, we obtained information on general knowledge of natural cosmetics and skin hydration, as well as the use of moisturizing cosmetic products. We made a hydrogel with extract of white fir (Abies alba) wood and a placebo hydrogel. 30 volunteers evaluated the sensory properties of hydrogels, while at the same time we performed measurements of radiance, hydration, melanin and erythema index, and skin pH on 10 volunteers. The testing was carried out for three weeks, and we wanted to prove the effect of white fir wood extract primarily on skin hydration. In the sensory evaluation, we discovered that the majority of volunteers were satisfied with hydrogels. Placebo hydrogel was more popular because of its milder smell and neutral color. Most volunteers liked the consistency of both hydrogels, as well as the spreadabilitiy and absorption of the hydrogels. After three weeks of use, a better effect on the skin was observed when using the test hydrogel with white fir wood extract. The most significant change when using the test hydrogel was observed in softness of the skin and the majority believed the moisture of the skin had also improved. Skin hydration increased after the third week of both test and placebo hydrogel use, however, no significant increase was observed in relation to the hydrogel type. The glow of the skin didn’t increase significantly, which also coincides with the results of the questionnaires, where volunteers didn’t notice significant changes in the glow of the skin. By measuring the melanin and erythema index, we placed volunteers in the selected skin phototype according to the Fitzpatrick scale and observed the effect of the test hydrogel on the melanin content in the skin and we also checked the effect on erythema. The test hydrogel had neither a significant nor a negative effect on the erythema. We also evaluated the pH of the skin on the face, specifically on the area of cheekbones. The values were comparable throughout the measurements, which we were satisfied with, as we don’t want these values to change drastically.

• Keywords: evaluation, hydration, hydrogel, moisturizing ingredients, white fir (Abies alba) wood extract