Vpliv strukture tkanine na pojav pilinga pred in po pranju

Veskova, Marija (author), Kostajnšek, Klara (mentor)

V diplomski nalogi smo analizirali vpliv različnih konstrukcijskih parametrov in surovinske sestave tkanin na pojav pilinga pred pranjem in po njem. Pilling je površinska sprememba, ki zmanjša uporabno vrednost tekstilije. Nastane kot posledica trenja tekstilije pri nošenju, pranju in sušenju. V prvem delu naloge smo podrobno pojasnili, kaj piling je, opisali mehanizem tvorbe pilinga in predstavili dejavnike, ki vplivajo na ta pojav. Na kratko smo predstavili lastnosti materialov, ki smo jih uporabili za analizo. V eksperimentalnem delu smo izdelali štirinajst različnih tkanin, ki se razlikujejo po vezavah in po uporabljenih prejah v votku. Prvih osem enostavnih tkanin smo natkali v dveh vezavah (keper in atlas) in v štirih različnih surovinah po votku, z vzorcem tkanja 1a (bombaž 62 tex, viskoza 2 x 32 tex, volna 73 tex in volna/poliakril 76 tex), in gostoto 17 niti/cm. Preostalih šest tkanin je kompleksnih – dvojnih tkanin iz keprov v dveh barvnih efektih in šestih različnih kombinacijah prej po votku z vzorcem tkanja 1a:1b (bombaž : viskoza; bombaž : volna; bombaž : volna/akril; viskoza : volna; viskoza : volna/akril; volna : volna/akril) in gostoto 28 niti/cm. Vse tkanine so bile izdelane na enaki bombažni osnovi dolžinske mase 2 x 8 tex, z vzorcem snovanja 1A1B (ena bela in ena črna nit), ter gostoto 40 niti/cm. Analiza vzorcev je zajemala preiskavo odpornosti tkanin na piling pred pranjem in po njem. Iz analize rezultatov smo ugotovili, da je v povprečju ocena pilinga pri opranih tkaninah nekoliko višja od neopranih. Prav tako so ocene boljše pri kompleksnih tkaninah v primerjavi z enostavnimi. V največji meri se je na pojav pilinga pokazal vpliv surovinske sestave. Tkanine z votkom iz viskoze so izrazito slabo odporne na piling v primerjavi z drugimi. V majhni meri se pokaže vpliv debeline in vpliv različne površine. Drugi konstrukcijski parametri tkanin na pojav pilinga ne vplivajo.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: piling, konstrukcijski parametri tkanin, enostavne in kompleksne tkanine, žakarski vzorec
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2023
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-148676
• Publication date in RUL: 29.08.2023

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Fabric structure influence on peeling effect before and after washing

Abstract

In the thesis, the influence of different construction parameters and raw materials of the fabric on the occurrence of pilling before and after washing was investigated. Pilling is a surface change that reduces the serviceability of textiles. It is caused by the friction of the textile during wearing, washing and drying. In the first part of the thesis, we have explained in detail what pilling is, described the mechanism of pilling formation and presented the factors that influence this phenomenon. We briefly presented the properties of the materials used for the analysis. In the experimental part, we made fourteen different fabrics, differing in the weave and the type of yarns used in the weft. The first eight basic fabrics were woven in two weaves (twill and satin) and with four different types of yarns in the weft with the weave pattern 1a (cotton 62tex, viscose 2x32 tex, wool 73 tex and wool / acrylic 76 tex). The density was 17 threads/cm. The remaining six fabrics were complex double twill fabrics with two color effects and six different yarn combinations in the weft, with a weft pattern 1a:1b (cotton: viscose, cotton: wool, cotton: wool/ acrylic, viscose: wool, viscose: wool/ acrylic, wool: wool/ acrylic). The density was 28 threads/cm. All fabrics were made on the same cotton warp with a linear density of 2 x 8 tex and a warp pattern of 1A1B (one white and one black thread) with a density of 40 threads/cm. The analysis of the samples included a study of the pilling resistance of the fabrics before and after washing. Analysis of the results showed that, on average, pilling values were slightly higher for washed fabrics than for unwashed fabrics. Similarly, the values for complex fabrics were better than for basics, single-color fabrics. The raw material had the greatest influence on the occurrence of pilling. Fabrics with viscose weft had extremely low pilling resistance compared to other fabrics. The thickness and the different surface areas had a minor influence. The other construction parameters of the fabrics had no influence on the occurrence of pilling.

• Keywords: pilling, fabric construction parameters, basic and complex fabrics, jacquard pattern