Vrednotenje senzoričnih lastnosti lastno izdelanega trdnega šampona za lase s površinsko aktivnimi snovmi naravnega izvora

Ribič, Klara (author), Kočevar Glavač, Nina (mentor), Schoss, Katja (co-mentor)

Nega las je nekoč vključevala predvsem šampon za učinkovito čiščenje. Vendar šamponi že leta ne veljajo samo kot kozmetični izdelek za čiščenje, ampak imajo dodatne sestavine, ki lase nahranijo, ohranjajo sijoče in obvladljive. Kozmetična industrija nenehno raziskuje nove naravne surovine kot tudi nove tehnike za formuliranje šamponov, da bi zadovoljila vedno zahtevnejše potrošnike. Trdne šampone za lase so razvili kot alternativo tradicionalnim šamponom z namenom zmanjševanja uporabe plastike v ovojnini zaradi negativnega vpliva na okolje. V diplomski nalogi smo izvedli raziskavo trga trdnih šamponov, ki so dostopni na slovenskem trgu, in test penjenja površinskih aktivnih snovi ter izdelali formulacijo trdnega šampona za lase, ki je vseboval površinsko aktivne snovi naravnega izvora in druge naravne sestavine. Nato smo izvedli senzorično vrednotenje s hedonsko metodo efektivnega testiranja. Pri tem je sodelovalo 32 prostovoljcev, ki so ovrednotili senzorične lastnosti trdnega šampona, ki smo ga izdelali v laboratoriju, in trdnega šampona, ki smo ga kupili v drogeriji. V raziskavi trga smo ugotovili, da sta najpogosteje uporabljani površinsko aktivni snovi v komercialno dostopnih trdnih šamponih natrijev kokosulfat in natrijev kokoilizetionat. Od lipofilnih sestavin sta bila največkrat uporabljena karitejevo maslo in olivno olje, več kot polovica šamponov pa je vsebovala rastlinske izvlečke, največkrat izvleček koprive. Poleg navedb na ovojnini, kot so na primer, da je šampon veganski izdelek in da vsebuje 90–100 % naravnih sestavin, niso vsi trdni šamponi navajali logotipov certifikatov, ki bi potrjevali te navedbe. Pri testu penjenja smo ugotovili, da se izbrane površinsko aktivne snovi naravnega izvora dobro penijo in imajo stabilno peno. Kot najboljša sta se pri tem izkazala natrijev kokoilglutamat in natrijev kokoilglicinat. Pri senzoričnem vrednotenju smo ugotovili, da ima lastno izdelan testni šampon s površinsko aktivnimi snovmi naravnega izvora primerljive senzorične lastnosti s komercialnim šamponom. Večina testirancev je za testno formulacijo ocenila sposobnost penjenja (72 %), čiščenja (78 %) in spiranja (78 %) kot dobro. Zaključujemo, da je testna formulacija zadovoljila veliko sodobnih zahtev potrošnikov, kot so proizvajanje bogate in obstojne pene, nežno in učinkovito čiščenje ter trajnostni vidik.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: naravna kozmetika, površinsko aktivne snovi naravnega izvora, trdni šamponi, vrednotenje senzoričnih lastnosti
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2023
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-146930
• Publication date in RUL: 16.06.2023

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Evaluation of sensory properties of a custom-made hard shampoo with surfactants of natural origin

Abstract

Hair care once included mainly shampoo for effective cleansing. However, for years, shampoos have not only been considered a cosmetic product for cleansing, but have additional ingredients that nourish the hair, keep it shiny and manageable. The cosmetic industry is constantly researching new natural raw materials, as well as new techniques for formulating shampoos, to meet the ever-increasing consumer demands. Hard shampoos have been developed as an alternative to traditional shampoos with the aim of reducing the use of plastics in packaging due to its negative impact on the environment. In the diploma thesis, we conducted market research on hard shampoos that are available on the Slovenian market, a surfactant foaming test and created a hard shampoo formulation that contained surfactants of natural origin and other natural ingredients. We performed hedonic sensory evaluation with effective testing with 32 volunteers who evaluated the sensory properties of a hard shampoo that we made in the laboratory and a hard shampoo that we bought at a drugstore. In the market research, we found that the most used surfactants in commercially available hard shampoos are sodium coco-sulfate and sodium cocoyl isetoinate. Of the lipophilic ingredients, shea butter and olive oil were most often used, and more than half of the shampoos contained plant extracts, most often nettle extract. In terms of marketing claims on the packaging, such as the shampoo being a vegan product and that it contains 90-100% natural ingredients, not all shampoos contained certification logos to support these claims. In the foaming test, the selected surfactants of natural origin foamed well and made a stable foam. Sodium cocoyl glutamate and sodium cocoyl glycinate preformed the best. In the of the sensory analysis, the self-produced, test hard shampoo with surfactants of natural origin had comparable sensory properties to the commercial hard shampoo. Most volunteers rated the foaming (72 %), cleansing (78 %) and rinsing ability (78 %) as good for the tested formulation. We conclude that the formulation met many modern consumer demands, such as producing rich and stable foam, gentle and effective cleansing, and a sustainable aspect.

• Keywords: evaluation of sensory properties, hard shampoo, natural cosmetics, surfactants of natural origin