Oblikovanje trajnostne kolekcije po principu preoblikovanja rabljenih oblačil

Gazvoda, Maja (author), Zorec, Petja (mentor)

Diplomsko delo z naslovom Oblikovanje trajnostne kolekcije po principu preoblikovanja rabljenih oblačil združuje raziskovanje širše problematike oblačilnih in tekstilnih odpadkov ter vlogo, ki jo ima pri tem oblikovanje oblačil. Raziskovanje sem povezala tudi z lastnimi izhodišči in razmišljanjem o odnosu do oblačil včasih in danes. Rezultat povezovanja teoretičnega in eksperimentalnega dela, je avtorska kolekcija oblačil s prepoznavno vizualno identiteto, ki prikazuje različne pristope k preoblikovanju rabljenih oblačil in tekstilij. V teoretičnem delu sem se osredotočila na sisteme ravnanja z odpadnimi oblačili in tekstilijami ter analizirala obstoječe prakse ponovne uporabe zavrženih oblačil. Raziskovala sem tudi razvijajoče se področje krožnega oblikovanja in delovanje sodobnih modnih blagovnih znamk, ki spreminjajo ustaljene prakse oblikovanja, razvoja in proizvodnje kolekcij. Predstavila sem izzive s katerimi so oblikovalci soočeni v procesu preoblikovanja, katerega glavni cilj je ponovno uporabiti že obstoječa oblačila in tekstil ter jih tako vrniti v cikel uporabe. Teoretični del sem zaključila s predstavitvijo del umetnika Yves Kleina in njihovega vpliva na modne oblikovalce. V praktičnem delu sem raziskovala raznolike pristope preoblikovanja in ugotavljala kako v rabljena in staromodna oblačila ter tekstil vnesti sodobno estetiko. Pri tem sem si za likovna izhodišča zastavila stare družinske fotografije, ki so prikazovale svečane dogodke kot so krst, birma, obhajilo in poroka. Preko eksperimentov v odtiskovanju specifične modre barve na tekstilne materiale in modeliranju po lutki, je spontano nastajala kolekcija oblačil, ki je v celoti izdelana iz rabljenih oblačil in hišnega tekstila kot so prti, rjuhe in pregrinjala. Eksperimentalni del sem sklenila s serijo fotografij avtorske kolekcije, ki preko studijske in fotografije v ruralnem okolju predstavlja sodobno modno zgodbo z izhodiščem v starih družinskih fotografijah. Diplomsko delo, skupaj s trajnostno avtorsko kolekcijo z naslovom Načrtovana naključja, spodbuja k razmisleku o našem odnosu do oblačil in njihovi vrednosti, hkrati pa daje modnim oblikovalcem konkretna vodila in predloge za preoblikovanje že obstoječega materiala in oblačil.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: trajnost, predelava oblačil, Yves Klein, tiskanje, upcikliranje
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2023
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-146871
• Publication date in RUL: 15.06.2023

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Designing a sustainable collection based on upcycling principles of old clothes

Abstract

The diploma thesis entitled 'Designing a sustainable collection based on upcycling principles of old clothes' combines the research of the wider issue of clothing and textile waste as well as the role that clothing design plays in this. Further I connected the research with my personal starting points and thinking about the attitude towards clothes in the past versus in the current time. The result of intertwining theoretical and experimental work is unique clothing collection with a recognizable visual identity, which displays different approaches to upcycling of used clothes and textiles. In the theoretical part, I focused on systems for handling waste clothing and textiles and analyzed existing practices of reusing discarded clothing. I also researched the developing field of circular design and the operation of contemporary fashion brands that are changing the established practices of design, development and production of collections. I also presented the challenges that designers face in the process of upcycling, the main goal of which is to reuse existing clothes and textiles and thus return them to the cycle of use. I concluded the theoretical part with a presentation of the works of the artist Yves Klein and their influence on fashion designers. In my practical work, I researched various approaches to upcycling and found out how to introduce modern aesthetics into used and old-fashioned clothes and textiles. I used old family photos as artistic starting points, which depicted solemn events such as baptism, confirmation, communion and wedding. Through experiments in printing a specific blue color on textile materials and draping on a doll, a collection of clothes was spontaneously created, which is entirely made from used clothes and home textiles such as tablecloths, sheets and bedspreads. I concluded the experimental part through a series of photos, which through studio and rural photography presents a contemporary fashion story with a starting point in old family photos. The thesis, together with the sustainable clothing collection entitled Planned coincidences, encourages reflection on our relationship with clothes and their value, and at the same time gives fashion designers concrete guidelines and suggestions for upcycling already existing material and clothes.

• Keywords: sustainability, clothing processing, Yves Klein, textile printing, upcycling