Vegetable butters and oils as therapeutically and cosmetically active ingredients for dermal use : a review of clinical studies
ID Poljšak, Nina (Author), ID Kočevar Glavač, Nina (Author)

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While the chemical composition of vegetable butters and oils has been studied in detail, there is limited knowledge about their mechanisms of action after application on the skin. To understand their dermal effects better, 27 clinical studies evaluating 17 vegetable oils (almond, argan, avocado, borage, coconut, evening primrose, kukui, marula, mustard, neem, olive, rapeseed, sacha inchi, safflower, shea butter, soybean and sunflower oils) were reviewed in this research. The reviewed studies focused on non-affected skin, infant skin, psoriasis, xerosis, UVB-induced erythema, atopic dermatitis, molluscum contagiosum, tungiasis, scars, striae and striae gravidarum. We conclude that in inflammation-affected skin, vegetable oils with a high content of oleic acid, together with the lack of or a low linoleic acid content, may cause additional structural damage of the stratum corneum, while oils high in linoleic acid and saturated fatty acids may express positive effects. Non-affected skin, in contrast, may not react negatively to oils high in oleic acid. However, the frequency and duration of an oil’s use must be considered an important factor that may accelerate or enhance the negative effects on the skin’s structural integrity.

Keywords:vegetable butters, vegetable oils, skin barrier, fatty acids, infant skin, xerosis, atopic dermatitis, psoriasis
Work type:Article
Typology:1.02 - Review Article
Organization:FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Publication status:Published
Publication version:Version of Record
Number of pages:17 str.
Numbering:Vol. 13, art. 868461
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-145325 This link opens in a new window
ISSN on article:1663-9812
DOI:10.3389/fphar.2022.868461 This link opens in a new window
COBISS.SI-ID:108011011 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:17.04.2023
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Record is a part of a journal

Title:Frontiers in pharmacology
Shortened title:Front Pharmacol
Publisher:Frontiers Media
COBISS.SI-ID:29551833 This link opens in a new window


License:CC BY 4.0, Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International
Description:This is the standard Creative Commons license that gives others maximum freedom to do what they want with the work as long as they credit the author.

Secondary language

Keywords:rastlinska masla, kožna bariera, maščobne kisline, koža dojenčkov, kseroza, atopični dermatitis, luskavica, kozmetika, rastlinska olja, dermatologija


Funder:ARRS - Slovenian Research Agency
Project number:P1-0208
Name:Farmacevtska kemija: načrtovanje, sinteza in vrednotenje učinkovin

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