Proučevanje sestave kozmetičnih izdelkov z azijskim vodnim popnjakom (Centella asiatica)

Čater Demšar, Špela (author), Ahlin Grabnar, Pegi (mentor)

Trg kozmetičnih izdelkov se iz leta v leto širi, med drugim je vedno bolj priljubljena aktivna nega. Iskane so kozmetično aktivne sestavine (KAS), ki bi uporabnikom izdelkov pomagale do gladke, sijoče in zdrave kože. Potrebe kože posameznika so različne in pogosto se poleg osnovne vsakodnevne nege, ki zajema čiščenje in vlaženje, izvaja aktivno nego, ki zajema uporabo izdelkov s KAS, med katere sodijo tudi izvlečki azijskega vodnega popnjaka. V diplomski nalogi smo proučili 58 kozmetičnih izdelkov (KI), ki so dostopni na trgu. Osredotočili smo se na njihovo tehnološko obliko, namen uporabe in mesto nanosa, cenovni razred, KAS, ki so najpogosteje prisotne poleg azijskega vodnega popnjaka ter na pomožne sestavine. Azijski vodni popnjak lahko vključimo v raznolike tehnološke oblike kozmetičnih izdelkov, prevladujejo pa izdelki, ki se nahajajo v obliki krem, teh je 33 (56,9 %) med izbranimi KI. Kreme so enostavne in priročne za uporabo, njihova uporaba pa pusti prijeten občutek na koži. Po pogostosti sledijo izdelki v obliki seruma in tonika, vendar je teh znatno manj, in sicer 7 KI (12,1 %). Največ izdelkov je namenjenih negi obraza (75,9 %), ostali pa čiščenju obraza, negi telesa, zaščiti telesa in dekorativi. Specifični nameni izdelkov za nego obraza so spodbujanje obnavljanja kože, nega aknaste kože, proti staranju, pomirjanje rdečice in draženja. Izvlečki azijskega vodnega popnjaka spodbujajo sintezo kolagena, pospešujejo celično proliferacijo in delujejo protivnetno. Cenovni razpon kozmetičnih izdelkov je bil velik, približno polovica so bili izdelki nižjega, polovica pa izdelki višjega cenovnega razreda. Skupini se nista razlikovali glede na število izdelkov, pri katerih se je izvleček azijskega vodnega popnjaka nahajal v prvi polovici seznama sestavin. Največ izdelkov višjega cenovnega razreda so bili izdelki za zrelo kožo, ki so preprečevali in zmanjševali znake staranja. Noben izdelek ni imel izvlečka azijskega vodnega popnjaka kot edino prisotno kozmetično aktivno sestavino. Najpogosteje sta bila prisotna pantenol, ki se je nahajal v 21 KI (36,2 %), med katerimi so prevladovali izdelki za pomirjanje kože, in vitamin E, ki je bil prisoten predvsem v izdelkih za čiščenje kože. Izvlečki azijskega vodnega popnjaka so široko uporabljane KAS, ki koristno delujejo na različna stanja kože, zato so v KI zelo priljubljene.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: azijski vodni popnjak, izvlečki, kozmetični izdelek, nega kože
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2023
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-144440
• Publication date in RUL: 22.02.2023

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: A study of cosmetic products compositions containing Asiatic pennywort (Centella asiatica)

Abstract

The market for cosmetic products is expanding year by year, and among other things, active care is becoming increasingly popular. People are seeking cosmetically active ingredients that will help them achieve smooth, shiny, and healthy skin. Every individual's skin needs are different, and so, in addition to basic daily care, which includes cleaning and moisturizing, active care is often carried out with products that contain active ingredients, such as extracts of Centella asiatica. In this diploma thesis, we examined 58 cosmetic products that are available on the market. We focused on their technological form, purpose of use, place of application, price range, which active ingredients are most often present in addition to Centella asiatica and auxiliary ingredients. Centella asiatica can be included in various forms of cosmetic products, but creams predominate, making up 33 products (56.9 %) among selected. Creams are easy and convenient to use, and leave a pleasant feeling on the skin. Serums and tonics are the second most common form of products, but there are significantly fewer of them - 7 products (12.1 %). The majority of products are intended for face care (75.9 %), while the rest are for face cleaning, body care, body protection, and decoration. The specific purposes of facial care products are skin renewal, acne-prone skin care, anti-aging, soothing redness and irritation. Centella asiatica extracts stimulate collagen synthesis, promote cell proliferation, and have an anti-inflammatory effect. The price range for these products was wide, with about half being in the lower and half being in the higher price range. The groups did not differ in the number of products with Centella asiatica extract in the first half of the ingredient list. Most of the high-end products were products for mature skin that prevent and reduce the signs of aging. None of the products had Centella asiatica extract as the sole cosmetically active ingredient. Panthenol and vitamin E were the most commonly found components, each present in 21 products (36.2 %). Panthenol was primarily found in skin soothing products, and vitamin E in skin cleansing products. Centella asiatica extracts are widely used as cosmetically active ingredients, due to their beneficial effects on various skin conditions. This has made them highly popular in cosmetic products.

• Keywords: Centella asiatica, extracts, cosmetic product, skin care