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Proučevanje sestave, lastnosti in dostopnosti kozmetičnih izdelkov s peptidi
ID Tušar, Teja (Author), ID Gašperlin, Mirjana (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window

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Abstract
Peptidi so na trgu kozmetičnih izdelkov prisotni že skoraj 50 let. V tem času so se nekateri peptidi uveljavili kot učinkovite aktivne sestavine za široko področje kožnih problematik. Peptide sestavlja do 100 aminokislin, ki so med seboj povezane s peptidno vezjo. Nekateri peptidi niso sposobni prehajati rožene plasti in so tako odlični tvorilci filmov, okluzivi in humektanti. V to skupino spadajo tudi hidrolizirani proteini. Nekateri peptidi pa prodrejo globlje in preko različnih mehanizmov delovanja izboljšajo stanje kože. Slednje delimo na tri skupine, in sicer signalne, prenašalne in inhibitorne peptide. V diplomskem delu smo preiskovali kozmetične izdelke, ki vsebujejo peptide in so dostopni na slovenskem trgu. Osredotočili smo se na izdelke, ki se prodajajo preko spleta. Skupaj smo zbrali 107 izdelkov, in si za vsakega izpisali blagovno znamko, linijo, ime, tehnološko vrsto, mesto uporabe, ceno, količino, sestavine in oglaševanje peptidov. Izločili smo 2 izdelka, ki nista ustrezala kriterijem. Pri raziskovanju smo se osredotočili na več različnih vidikov. Izdelki, ki smo jih analizirali so bili najpogosteje namenjeni uporabi na obrazu. Največkrat smo izdelke zasledili v obliki kreme in seruma. Poleg izdelkov za nego smo zasledili proteine tudi v dekorativni kozmetiki. Skoraj polovica izdelkov, glede na postavljene kriterije, spada v visok cenovni razred. Izdelki največkrat vsebujejo kombinacijo 2 do 3 peptidov. Med najbolj zastopanimi peptidi so bili palmitoil tetrapeptid-7, palmitoil tripeptid-1, acetil heksapeptid-8, karnozin in hidrolizirani proteini. Naštete peptide smo podrobneje opisali in povzeli študije, ki so potrdile njihovo delovanje. Za konec smo se osredotočili še na nekatere neskladnosti, ki so se pojavile med raziskovanjem.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:peptidi, signalni, prenašalni, inhibitorni, kozmetični izdelki, hidrolizirani proteini
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Year:2023
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-143858 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:15.01.2023
Views:1202
Downloads:140
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:A study of the composition, characteristics and accessibility of peptides-containing cosmetic products
Abstract:
Peptides have been present in the cosmetics market for almost 50 years. During this time, some peptides have established themselves as effective active ingredients for a wide range of skin problems. Peptides are composed of up to 100 amino acids linked together by a peptide bond. Some peptides are unable to cross the stratum corneum and are therefore excellent film formers, occlusive agents and humectants. Hydrolysed proteins also fall under this category. However, some peptides penetrate deeper and improve skin condition through different mechanisms of action. The latter are divided into three groups, namely signal peptides, carrier peptides and inhibitory peptides. In our thesis we investigated cosmetic products containing peptides that are available on the Slovenian market. We focused on products sold online. In total, we collected 107 products, and for each of them we wrote down the brand, line, name, technological type, place of use, price, quantity, ingredients and advertising of the peptides. We also collected ingredient lists and labelled all peptides on them. After consideration, we eliminated 2 products that did not meet the criteria. We focused our research on several different aspects. The products we found were most often intended for use on the face. The products were mainly in the form of creams and serums. In addition to skincare products, we also found decorative cosmetics. Almost half of the products belong to the high price range according to the criteria we set. The products mostly contain a combination of 2 to 3 peptides. The most represented peptides were palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, acetyl hexapeptide-8, carnosine and hydrolysed proteins. We have described these peptides in more detail and summarised the studies that have confirmed their efficiency. Finally, we have focused on some of the non-compliances that have arisen during the course of our research.

Keywords:peptides, signal, carrier, inhibitor, cosmetics, hydrolysed proteins

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