Pregled kozmetičnih izdelkov, namenjenih negi in prekrivanju nepravilnosti aknaste kože

Medved, Mia (author), Zvonar Pobirk, Alenka (mentor)

V času pubertete, ko pride do spremenjenega delovanja pilosebacealne enote kože, so pogost pojav akne. Gre za multifaktorno bolezen, ki prizadene predvsem obraz, prsni koš, hrbet in ramena. Vzrok za njihov pojav je v štirih ključnih procesih: povečana in spremenjena tvorba sebuma, hiperkeratinizacija, kolonizacija Cutibacterium acnes ter sproščanje vnetnih mediatorjev. Z uporabo kozmetičnih izdelkov (KI), ki vsebujejo kozmetično aktivne sestavine (KAS), želimo učinkovati na te procese z namenom zmanjšanja videza in preprečevanja nastanka aknastih lezij. V nego aken vključujemo različne vrste KI: čistilne, negovalne in dekorativne izdelke. Tovrstni KI poleg KAS vsebujejo še druge sestavine, značilne za vsako vrsto izdelkov posebej. V okviru diplomskega dela smo proučili ponudbo 41 KI za nego aknaste kože na slovenskem trgu ter ovrednotili sestavo in učinke izbranih izdelkov. Pri analizi izdelkov smo se osredotočili predvsem na vsebovane KAS in njihov učinek na ključne procese pri nastanku aken. V analizo smo vključili 14 čistilnih, 14 negovalnih in 13 dekorativnih kozmetičnih izdelkov. V vseh treh skupinah smo proučili tudi ostale pomembne neaktivne sestavine izdelkov: površinsko aktivne snovi v izdelkih za čiščenje, vlažilne komponente negovalnih izdelkov ter pigmente in vsebnost UV filtrov v dekorativnih izdelkih. Tekom analize smo bili pozorni tudi na razlike med izdelki glede na cenovni razred. Prišli smo do ugotovitev, da so KAS prisotne praktično v vseh pregledanih izdelkih, z izjemo enega dekorativnega KI. Najpogosteje uporabljena KAS je salicilna kislina (prisotna pri 58 % izdelkov). V izdelkih za čiščenje aknaste kože prevladujejo anionske površinsko aktivne snovi, katerih najpogosteje uporabljen predstavnik je natrijev lavret sulfat. Od vlažilnih komponent je v negovalnih izdelkih največkrat uporabljen glicerol. Zaščitni faktor je bil prisoten v le nekaterih dekorativnih izdelkih, uporabljeni pigmenti pa so titanov dioksid in železovi oksidi. V sestavi 23 izdelkov smo zasledili tudi KAS rastlinskega izvora, ki v večini izkazujejo protivnetno in protimikrobno delovanje. Obravnavani izdelki so glede na navedene trditve primerni za nego aknaste kože. Nekomedogeno delovanje navaja polovica izdelkov. Na ovojnini ter uradnih spletnih straneh smo pogosto zasledili tudi delovanja matiranja kože in ožanja por. Zelo majhen delež vseh izdelkov je navajal podatek o točni vsebnosti kozmetično aktivnih sestavin. Vsem izbranim izdelkom, ki smo jih našli na slovenskem trgu, smo glede na predpostavljene kriterije potrdili primernost za nego aknaste kože.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: akne, nega, čistilni izdelki, negovalni izdelki, dekorativni izdelki
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2022
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-139971
• Publication date in RUL: 09.09.2022

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Overview of cosmetic products for skincare and corrective covering of acne prone skin

Abstract

During puberty, when the pilosebaceous unit of the skin changes, acne is very common. It is a multifactorial disease affecting mainly the face, chest, back and shoulders. They are caused by 4 key processes: increased and altered sebum production, hyperkeratinisation, colonisation by Cutibacterium acnes and the release of inflammatory mediators. The use of cosmetic products containing cosmetically active ingredients aims to influence these processes in order to reduce the appearance and prevent the formation of acne lesions. Different types of cosmetic products are included in acne care: cleansers, skincare and decorative products. These types of cosmetic products contain, in addition to cosmetically active ingredients, other ingredients specific to each type of product. In the framework of this thesis, 41 acne skin care products on the Slovenian market were studied and the composition and effects of the selected products were evaluated. The analysis of the products focused mainly on the cosmetically active ingredients contained and their effect on the key processes involved in acne formation. 14 cleansing, 14 skin care and 13 decorative cosmetic products were included in the analysis. In all three groups, we also looked at other important non-active ingredients in the products: surfactants in cleansing products, moisturising components in skincare products, and pigments and UV filter content in decorative products. In the course of the analysis, we also looked at the differences between higher-end and lower-end products. We concluded that cosmetically active ingredients are present in practically all the products examined, with the exception of one decorative cosmetic product. The most commonly used cosmetically active ingredients is salicylic acid (present in 58% of products). Anionic surfactants are predominant in acne skin cleansing products, the most commonly used representative being sodium laureth sulphate. Of the moisturising components, glycerol is the most commonly used in skin care products. SPF was present in only a few decorative products and the pigments used were titanium dioxide and iron oxides. Plant-derived cosmetically active ingredients were also found in 23 products, most of which showed anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial activity. The products concerned are suitable for the treatment of acne-prone skin according to the usual claims. Non-comedogenic activity is claimed by half of the products. Skin mattifying and pore tightening actions were also frequently mentioned on the packaging and on the official websites. A very small proportion of all products indicated the exact content of cosmetically active ingredients. We have confirmed the suitability of all the selected products that we found on the Slovenian market for theirs acne-prone skin based on the assumed criteria.

• Keywords: acne, skin care, cleansing products, skin care products, decorative products