Vrednotenje vpliva šampona s sirotko na transepidermalno izgubo vode in vitro

Šarman - Gaberšek, Zala (author), Gosenca Matjaž, Mirjam (mentor)

Za aktivno nego (foto) starane kože v kozmetiki pogosto uporabljamo kozmetično aktivne sestavine, ki vplivajo na strukturo kože in njene biološke funkcije. Pomembno skupino predstavljajo proteini in peptidi, med katere uvrščamo tudi sirotko. Sirotka je namreč tekoči vir proteinov, ki nastane s proizvodnjo sira. V preteklosti je veljala za industrijsko onesnaževalo, danes pa je uveljavljena sestavina, ki se zaradi ugodnih učinkov in vpliva na lastnosti same formulacije vgrajuje v kozmetične izdelke za nego kože in las. Sirotka je lahko v suhi ali tekoči obliki, z membransko filtracijo pa dobimo sirotko različne čistosti – prah, koncentrat, izolat, hidrolizat in permeat. V diplomski nalogi smo vrednotili tri najbolj optimalne formulacije šamponov z in brez vgrajene tekoče sirotke, razvite v okviru predhodnih raziskav na Katedri za farmacevtsko tehnologijo na Fakulteti za farmacijo. Želeli smo ovrednotiti potencial draženja po nanosu šamponov z različno sestavo. Šampon je kozmetični izdelek za lase, namenjen čiščenju in odstranjevanju umazanije z las in lasišča, posledično vsebuje visoko koncentracijo površinsko aktivnih snovi, ki so potencialno dražeče. V nadaljevanju smo zato pripravili tudi raztopine površinsko aktivnih snovi v različnih koncentracijah in razmerjih, kar nam je pomagalo pri interpretaciji dobljenih vrednosti za končne formulacije. Zanimalo nas je, kako šamponi in raztopine vplivajo na transepidermalno izgubo vode, to je pasivna izguba vode skozi intaktno roženo plast. Poskus smo izvedli na modelu prašičje kože in vitro, ki smo jo vpeli v Franzovo difuzijsko celico. V okviru preliminarnega testiranja smo določili optimalno časovno točko za meritev transepidermalne izgube vode po odstranitvi formulacije. Odločili smo se, da bomo bazalne vrednosti primerjali s končnimi vrednostmi po desetih in dvajsetih minutah od odstranitve formulacij in raztopin. S Tewametrom®TM 300 smo izmerili bazalno vrednost pred nanosom formulacije in vrednost transepidermalne izgube vode po njeni odstranitvi. Snov se opredeli kot dražečo, če je razlika med bazalno in končno vrednostjo večja ali enaka 6 g/m²/h. Ugotovili smo, da formulacije šamponov s 15 % vsebnostjo natrijevega lavrilsulfata dražijo kožo. Prav tako so rezultati potrdili, da je kokamid dietanolamid problematična, dražeča spojina, zato se naj v kozmetične izdelke vgrajuje v čim manjši koncentraciji.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: sirotka, šampon, draženje, transepidermalna izguba vode, Franzovadifuzijska celica
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2022
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-139950
• Publication date in RUL: 09.09.2022

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: In vitro evaluation of whey-based shampoo on transepidermal water loss

Abstract

For the active care of (photo) aged skin, cosmetically active ingredients that affect the structure of the skin and its biological functions are often used in cosmetics. One such ingredients are proteins and peptides, including whey. Whey is a liquid source of proteins produced by cheese production. In the past it was considered an industrial pollutant, but today it is a well-established ingredient that is incorporated into cosmetic products for skin and hair care due to its beneficial effects on skin and hair as well as on formulation’ features. Whey can be in dry or liquid form and membrane filtration produces whey of different purities - powder, concentrate, isolate, hydrolysate and permeate. In this thesis, we evaluated the three most optimal shampoo formulations with and without incorporated liquid whey, developed in the framework of previous research at the Department of Pharmaceutical Technology, Faculty of Pharmacy. The aim was to evaluate the potential irritation after application of shampoos with different composition. Shampoo is a cosmetic hair product designed to clean and remove dirt from the hair and scalp, therefore it contains a high concentration of surfactants, which can irritate the skin. Therefore we have also prepared surfactants solutions in different concentrations and ratios to help us interpret the values obtained for the final formulations. We were interested in how these shampoos and solutions affect transepidermal water loss, i.e. the passive loss of water through the intact stratum corneum. The experiment was carried out ion a pig skin model embedded in a Franz diffusion cell in vitro. As part of preliminary testing, the optimal time points for measuring transepidermal water loss after formulation removal were determined. We decided to compare the baseline values with the final values at ten and twenty minutes after removal of the formulations or surfactant solutions. The basal value before the application of the formulation and the transepidermal water loss value after its removal were measured using a Tewameter®TM 300. A substance is defined as an irritant if the difference between the basal and final value is equal or higher than 6 g/m²/h. All shampoo formulations containing 15 % sodium lauryl sulphate were found to be skin irritants. The results also confirmed that cocamide diethanolamide is a problematic, irritant compound and should therefore be incorporated in cosmetic products at the lowest possible concentration.

• Keywords: whey, shampoo, irritation, transepidermal water loss, Franz diffusion cell