Jugoslovanska alpinistična odprava – Everest 1979: analiza poročanja časopisa Delo in analiza arhivskega gradiva : diplomsko delo

Premrov, Žan (author), Mikša, Peter (mentor)

V diplomski nalogi bom skušal predstaviti jugoslovansko odpravo na Everest leta 1979, kot je o njej poročal časopis Delo, in s pomočjo arhivskih virov analizirati organizacijo odprave. Naloga v prvem delu prikazuje vzpon in celotno dogajanje ob jugoslovanski odpravi na Everest leta 1979 skozi pisanje časopisa Delo. Največji slovenski časopis je na odpravo v Himalajo poslal tudi svojega novinarja in dopisnika Marjana Raztresna. Ta je prek pisem in faksa v Ljubljano pošiljal svoje kolumne, v katerih je iz prve roke opisoval dogajanje v baznem taboru na ledeniku Khumbu pod Everestom ter vse podvige, ki so jih opravili alpinisti na poti proti vrhu. Njegovo pisanje je v Slovenijo sicer prihajalo z večtedenskim zamikom, njegov pripovedni stil in način opisovanja dogajanja na gori pa sta bralcem časopisa Delo dogodke predstavila tako, kot da bi sami sodelovali v tem podvigu. V Sloveniji je za Delo pisal Franci Savenc, ena izmed legend slovenskega alpinizma, ki se je proslavil kot glavni kronist slovenskih in jugoslovanskih vzponov. Leta 1967 je začel s svojo rubriko Alpinistične novice in bil 20 let tudi njen urednik. O odpravi leta 1979 je pisal krajše aktualne novice, napisal pa je tudi nekaj daljših člankov, med drugim za Sobotno prilogo. V drugem delu diplomske naloge sem s pomočjo arhivskih virov analiziral, kako je potekala organizacija odprave. Viri se nahajajo v Arhivu republike Slovenije pod signaturo SI AS 1176. Za diplomsko nalogo je bila najbolj zanimiva tehnična enota 38, v kateri se nahaja dokumentacija Komisije za odprave v tuja gorstva (KOTG), ki hrani podatke o odpravi na Everest leta 1979. Pod drobnogled sem vzel postopek izbire kandidatov, zbiranje materialnih sredstev in opreme ter financiranje odprave.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: Jugoslavija, Slovenija, odprava, Everest, 1979, časopis Delo
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Typology: 2.11 - Undergraduate Thesis
• Organization: FF - Faculty of Arts
• Place of publishing: Ljubljana
• Publisher: Ž. Premrov
• Year: 2022
• Number of pages: 86 f.
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-139540
• UDC: 796.5"1979"
• COBISS.SI-ID: 126004995
• Publication date in RUL: 04.09.2022

PREMROV, Žan, 2022, Jugoslovanska alpinistična odprava – Everest 1979: analiza poročanja časopisa Delo in analiza arhivskega gradiva : diplomsko delo [online]. Bachelor’s thesis. Ljubljana : Ž. Premrov. [Accessed 16 May 2025]. Retrieved from: https://repozitorij.uni-lj.si/IzpisGradiva.php?lang=eng&id=139540

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Yugoslav alpine expedition - Everest 1979: analysis of Delo newspaper coverage and archival material : diplomsko delo

Abstract

In my thesis I will try to present the Yugoslav expedition to Everest in 1979 as reported in the newspaper Delo, and I will also use archival sources to analyse the organisation of the expedition itself. In the first part of the thesis, the Yugoslav expedition to Everest in 1979 and the climb itself are presented through the newspaper Delo. The largest Slovenian newspaper sent its journalist and correspondent Marjan Raztresen with the expedition to the Himalayas. He sent his columns to Ljubljana by letter and fax, in which he described first-hand the events at the base camp on the Khumbu glacier below Everest, and all the feats undertaken by the climbers on their way to the summit. Although his writing arrived in Slovenia with a delay of several weeks, his narrative style and the way he described what was happening on the mountain presented the events to the readers of the Delo newspaper as if they were taking part in the feat themselves. In Slovenia, Franci Savenc, one of the legends of Slovenian mountaineering, wrote for Delo and became known as the main chronicler of Slovenian and Yugoslav climbs. In 1967, he started his own column Alpinistične novice (Alpinist News) and was its editor for 20 years. He wrote short topical news items about the 1979 expedition, but also some longer articles, including in the Saturday supplement. In the second part of my thesis I analysed how the expedition was organised, using archival sources. The sources are located in the Archives of the Republic of Slovenia under the signature SI AS 1176. The most interesting part of the thesis was technical unit 38, which contains the documentation of the Commission for Expeditions to Foreign Mountains (KOTG), which holds the data from the 1979 Everest expedition. I looked at the process of selecting candidates, collecting material resources and equipment, and the financing of the expedition itself.

• Keywords: Yugoslavia, Slovenia, expedition, 1979, newspaper Delo