Karakterizacija alpinističnih klinov : diplomsko delo

Nemec, Neža (author), Fajfar, Peter (mentor)

Alpinizem je veda o Alpah in alpinistiki. Je vzpenjanje na visoke vrhove po nezavarovanih in nezaznamovanih smereh. Ta šport je sprožil več kulturnih odzivov, izraženih v literaturi, slikarstvu, fotografiji, filmu itd. Mnogi strokovnjaki štejejo alpinizem med najzahtevnejše športe, tako po fizični kot psihični plati. Nasprotniki alpinistu so gore, stene, grebeni in ledni slapovi. Osnovna vrednota tega športa je v človeku samem. Intenzivnost doživljanja v gorstvih, tovarištvo v navezi, sožitje z naravo, estetika, romantika, samopotrditev. Da je osvajanje najzahtevnejših vrhov čimbolj varno, mora biti vsak alpinist seznanjen z plezalno in vrvno tehniko. V svojem diplomskem delu sem predstavila alpinistično opremo in njen razvoj vzporedno s samim športom. Osredotočila sem se na alpinistične kline. Moja raziskava se je začela s povpraševanjem in iskanjem starih izbitih klinov. Nabrala sem jih kar nekaj iz Centralnih Alp, nekateri izmed njih imajo arheološko vrednost. Za raziskave pa smo izbrali alpinistične kline jeseničane. Slovenski alpinistični odsek Jesenice ima namreč tradicijo izdelovanja klinov že skoraj 50 let. Poudarek smo namenili metalografski analizi alpinističnih klinov. S svetlobnim in vrstičnim elektronskim mikroskopom (SEM) smo napravili karakterizacijo mikrostrukture v posameznih klinih, osredotočili smo se tudi na nekovinske vključke in ocenili njihovo sestavo, obliko in velikost. Kemijsko sestavo posameznih vključkov smo izmerili po metodi energijske disperzijske spektroskopije rentgenskih žarkov (EDS). Po metodah optične emisijske spektroskopije (OES) in z metodo infrardeče absorpcije po sežigu v indukcijski peči pa smo določili kemijsko sestavo vzorčnih klinov. Izmerili smo tudi njihovo trdoto po metodi Rockwell.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: alpinistični klin, jeklo, mikrostrukturna analiza, nekovinski vključki, trdota
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Typology: 2.11 - Undergraduate Thesis
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Place of publishing: Ljubljana
• Publisher: [N. Nemec]
• Year: 2022
• Number of pages: XIV, 68 f.
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-136772
• UDC: 669
• COBISS.SI-ID: 110394627
• Publication date in RUL: 20.05.2022

NEMEC, Neža, 2022, Karakterizacija alpinističnih klinov : diplomsko delo [online]. Bachelor’s thesis. Ljubljana : N. Nemec. [Accessed 25 June 2025]. Retrieved from: https://repozitorij.uni-lj.si/IzpisGradiva.php?lang=eng&id=136772

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Characterization of climbing pitons : diploma work

Abstract

Mountaineering or alpinism is the set of outdoor activities that involves ascending tall mountains. Alpinism is considered as science of Alps. This sport has triggered many cultural responses expressed in literature, painting, photography, film and so on. Many experts consider alpinism one of the most demanding sports, physically and mentally. The obstacles of an alpine climber are mountain ranges, walls, ridges and ice waterfalls. The basic value of the sport it is hold in a man himself. Intensity of experience, camaraderie with climbing partner, coexistence with nature, aesthetics, romance, self-affirmation. In the classic period of mountaineering free ascent meant ascending high peaks without technical equipment. Now this has changed, modern alpinism aims to conquer most demanding peaks with technical equipment. In my dissertation, I presented mountaineering equipment and it’s development in parallel with the sport itself. I focused mainly on climbing pitons. My research began with enquiry and demand to get old and rusty pitons. I have collected quite a few of them from Central Alps. Some of them have archaeological value. For our research we chose Slovenian climbing pitons named Jeseničani. Slovenian alpine club Jesenice has a tradition of making climbing pitons for nearly fifty years. We focused on the metallographic research of climbing piton. We have characterised microstructure by light and scanning electron microscopy (SEM), we also focused on non-metallic inclusions. We evaluated their composition, size and shape. Chemical composition was measured by X-ray spectroscopy (EDS). The chemical composition of pitons was determinated by optical emission spectroscopy (OES) and by infrared absorption after combustion in an induction furnace. We also measured hardness using the method Rockwell.

• Keywords: climbing piton, steel, microstructure analysis, non-metallic inclusions, hardness