The aim of the thesis is to study the process of mordanting patterns of 100% wool (WO), raw and bleached cotton (COs and COb) in the printing procedure when dyeing with natural dyes of turmeric (KU), onion peel (ČE ) and teran wine (VT). In the first part of the research the effect of concentration and ageing of the KU and ČE extracts, and the dyeing temperature of VT were determined, whereas the mordanted patterns WO, COb and COs were dyed in fresh and two-days-old KU and ČE extracts, as well as in hot and cold VT at two concentrations. In the second part of the research the patterns WO, COs and COb were mordanted with the printing process with added copper(II) sulphate to the pigment printing pastes in three different concentrations, namely 0.1, 0.5 and 1.0 % per printing paste mass. The subject patterns were also mordanted as per standard procedure for comparison. Mordanting was followed by dyeing in researched extracts. Based on colour characteristics of patterns, the thesis finds that the extract concentration, as well as the ageing and dyeing temperature, have different effects on WO, COs and COb pattern colours. Printing mordanting has introduced higher K/S pattern values and thus a higher depth of dyeing compared to standard mordanting, and in general darker colour tones of patterns. The comparison of values of colour differences, ΔEab*, of patterns has revealed that, when dyeing with KU, the increase of mordant colorization in the printing paste above 0.1% introduces more similar colour of patterns as displayed by the non-mordanted patterns. After dyeing with ČE and VT, the increased mordant concentration in the printing paste effects the more diverse colour tones of COs and COb patterns. The WO dyeing introduces sense in increasing the mordant share solely up to the 0.5% concentration per printing paste mass. Compared to standard mordanting, the printing mordanting has improved the colour permanence toward washing the COs and COb patterns dyed with KU and ČE, as well as the WO pattern dyed with VT.
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