Računalniško podprto oblikovanje imitacije čipke v žakarski tkanini

Shapkova, Elena (author), Zupin, Živa (mentor), Kostajnšek, Klara (co-mentor)

Namen diplomskega dela je ugotoviti, ali lahko v žakarski tkanini ustvarimo iluzijo oziroma imitacijo čipke, ter določiti fizikalno – mehanske lastnosti žakarske tkanine. Čipka je okrasna luknjičasta ali mrežasta ploskovna tekstilija, ki je lahko izdelana ročno ali strojno. Čipke so lahko klekljane, kvačkane, pletene ali šivane. Tkanina je kompaktna ploskovna tekstilija, izdelana s prepletanjem osnove in votka, ki se po svojih lastnostih zelo razlikuje od katerekoli čipke. Na tkanini bomo poskušali izdelati simulacijo čipke. Čipka se od tkanine razlikuje že po konstrukciji, uporabljeni preji, odprtosti tekstilije ter popolnoma različnih fizikalno – mehanskih lastnostih. V prvem delu diplomske naloge smo raziskali zgodovino čipk. Čipke so se kot dekorativne mrežaste tekstilije uporabljale že pred več kot 3000 leti. Najprej so bile vse čipke izdelane ročno, prve naj bi bile šivane, nato klekljane, kvačkane in pletene, v času industrijske revolucije in izdelave strojev pa se je začela tudi strojna izdelava čipk. Največji razcvet so čipke doživele v 16. stoletju, v elizabetinski dobi, ko so jih uporabljali za visoke škrobljene ovratnike. Čipke se danes še vedno izdelujejo ročno, v tradicionalnih ročnih tehnikah in za ohranjanje kulturne dediščine. Sodoben strojni način izdelave čipk je podprt z računalniško podprtimi CAD – sistemi in računalniškim vodenjem proizvodnje, kar omogoča kvalitetnejšo in enostavnejšo izdelavo. Ne glede na način izdelave je namen čipke okraševanje oblačil in hišnih tekstilij. V eksperimentalnem delu smo na podlagi dveh različno izdelanih čipk, ročno kvačkane in snutkovno pletene čipke, izdelali simulacije tkanine s pomočjo CAD – sistema Arahne. Oba vzorca čipk smo najprej digitalizirali s pomočjo programov Adobe Photoshop in Adobe Illustrator ter digitalizirane vzorce pripravili za izdelavo simulacij v CAD – programu Arahne. Izdelane simulacije čipk na tkanini smo tudi stkali. Tkaninam smo izmerili fizikalne, mehanske ter prepustnostne lastnosti ter ju med seboj primerjali, saj sta se konstrukcijsko razlikovali. Ugotovili smo, da je simulacija čipk na tkanini uspela in smo na tkanini poustvarili iluzijo čipke.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: čipka, zgodovina čipke, simulacija tkanine, tkanina, fizikalne – mehanske lastnosti tkanin
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: NTF - Faculty of Natural Sciences and Engineering
• Year: 2021
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-130090
• Publication date in RUL: 10.09.2021

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Computer aided design of lace imitation as jacquard woven fabric

Abstract

The purpose of this thesis is to investigate whether an illusion or imitation of lace can be created in jacquard fabrics. In addition, the physical – mechanical properties of jacquard fabric were determined. Lace is a decorative perforated or netted textile that can be handmade or machine – made. Lace can be crocheted, knitted, bobbin – stitched, or sewn. A woven fabric is a compact fabric created by the interweaving of warp and weft threads and has very different properties than lace. We will attempt to simulate lace on woven fabric. Lace differs from woven fabric in its construction, the yarn used, and the openness of the textile. In the first part of this diploma thesis, we looked at the history of lace. Lace has been used as decorative net textiles for more than 3000 years. Originally all lace was made by hand, the first handmade lace was sewn, then bobbin lace, crocheted and knitted. With Industrial Revolution and the advent of machines, machine – made lace was introduced. Lace reached its heyday in the 16th century, during the Elizabethan era, when it was used for high starched collars. Today, lace is still made by hand to preserve tradition and curtular heritage. Modern machine production of lace is supported by computerized systems CAD and computerized production processes that allow for higher quality and easier production. Regardless of the method of production, lace is used to decorate clothing and home textiles. In the experimental part, we used the Arahne CAD system to create a fabric simulation based on two differently manufactured laces, a hand crocheted lace and a machine knitted lace. The two lace patterns were first digitized using Adobe Photoshop and Adobe Illustrator, and the digitized patterns were prepared for simulations in Arahne CAD. The simulations of lace on fabric were woven. The physical, mechanical, and permeability properties of the fabrics were measured and compared as they differed in construction. We found that the simulation of lace on fabric was successful and we were able to recreate the illusion of lace on fabric.

• Keywords: lace, history of lace, woven fabric simulation, woven fabric, physical – mechanical properties of fabrics