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Ugotavljanje vsebnosti in stabilnosti vitaminov B-kompleksa v kozmetičnih izdelkih
ID Šenk, Anja (Author), ID Roškar, Robert (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window, ID Temova Rakuša, Žane (Co-mentor)

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Abstract
V skupino vitaminov B-kompleksa spada 8 vodotopnih vitaminov (B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B7, B9 in B12). Nekateri izmed njih so se zaradi svojih pozitivnih učinkov na koži uveljavili kot dragocene kozmetično aktivne sestavine. Najpogosteje sta v izdelkih zastopana vitamina B3 in B5, občasno tudi B6 in B12, ostale vitamine B-kompleksa pa v kozmetiki najdemo redkeje. Glavni namen diplomske naloge je bil ovrednotiti vsebnosti najpogosteje zastopanih B vitaminov (B3, B5, B6 in B12) v kozmetičnih izdelkih. V ta namen smo najprej razvili in ustrezno ovrednotili analizno metodo na osnovi tekočinske kromatografije visoke ločljivosti za hitro in sočasno analizo vitaminov B3, B5, in B6. Za vrednotenje vitaminov B12 in B7 pa smo uporabili predhodno razvito analizno metodo na osnovi tekočinske kromatografije visoke ločljivosti, ki smo jo ustrezno ovrednotili. Po pregledu izdelkov na trgu smo izbrali reprezentativen vzorec 37 izdelkov, ki po nanosu ostanejo na koži. Zastopanost posameznih vitaminov v izboru odraža stanje na slovenskem trgu. Izbrali smo tekoče in poltrdne izdelke v različnih kozmetičnih oblikah (emulzije, gele, raztopine) v cenovnem območju od 0,5 do 120€/50 mL izdelka, vključno z izdelki z navedeno vsebnostjo vitaminov na ovojnini. V izdelkih smo vrednotili vsebnost B vitaminov in preverili ustreznost njihovega označevanja. Kasneje smo izbrane izdelke izpostavili tudi pogojem za dolgoročno in pospešeno testiranje stabilnosti. Največ izdelkov je vsebovalo vitamina B3 in B5, ugotovljene vsebnosti za vitamin B5 so bile 0,14 – 5,19 % (m/m), vsebnosti vitamina B3 so bile v povprečju večje (0,03 – 11,22 % (m/m)). Vsebnosti vitaminov B6, B7 in B12 smo ugotavljali v 1 izdelku, ki je navajal njihovo prisotnost (ugotovljene vsebnosti B6: 0,557 % (m/m) in B12: 0,00088 % (m/m), B7 nismo zaznali). Pri vrednotenju vsebnosti smo ugotovili, da višja cena izdelka ni vedno povezana z večjo vsebnostjo vitaminov in posledično boljšim učinkom kozmetičnega izdelka. Ugotovljena vsebnost je odstopala od navedene pri 3 od 9 testiranih izdelkov s kvantitativno navedbo vsebnosti, pri dveh je bila manjša približno za polovico. Rezultati enomesečne stabilnostne študije so pokazali, da je vitamin B3 (v vseh testiranih izdelkih, razen v enem) stabilen tako pri 20 ␃ kot tudi 40 ␃, na nestabilnost vitamina B5 pa vpliva povišana temperatura. Višja cena izdelka pa ni povezana z boljšo stabilnostjo vitaminov v izdelkih. Vitamina B6 in B12 sta bila zastopana vsak samo v 1 izdelku, tako da ugotovljene nestabilnosti obeh vitaminov pri povišani temperaturi ne moremo posplošiti na ostale kozmetične izdelke.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:kozmetični izdelki, stabilnost, tekočinska kromatografija visoke ločljivosti, vitamini B-kompleksa, vsebnost
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Year:2021
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-130083 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:10.09.2021
Views:933
Downloads:195
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Determination of content and stability of B-complex vitamins in cosmetic products
Abstract:
The group of B-complex vitamins includes 8 water-soluble vitamins (B1, B2, B3, B5, B6, B7, B9, and B12). Some of them are established and valuable cosmetically active ingredients due to their positive effects on the skin. Vitamins B3 and B5 are most often present in cosmetic products, occasionally also B6 and B12, while other B vitamins are rarely found in cosmetics. Our main purpose was to evaluate the content of the most commonly represented B vitamins (B3, B5, B6 and B12) in cosmetic products. To this end, we first developed and appropriately evaluated an analytical method based on high-performance liquid chromatography for the rapid and simultaneous analysis of vitamins B3, B5, and B6. For evaluation of vitamins B12 and B7 we used a previously developed analytical method based on high-performance liquid chromatography, which we properly validated. After market review, we selected a representative sample of 37 leave-on products in various cosmetic forms (emulsions, gels, solutions) in the price range from 0,5 to 120€/50 mL of the product. The representation of individual vitamins in the selection reflects the situation on the Slovenian market. We included also the products with declared vitamin content on the packaging. We determined the content of B vitamins in the products and checked the adequacy of their labelling. Later, we also exposed certain products to the conditions for long-term and accelerated stability testing. Most products contained vitamins B3 and B5, the determined contents for vitamin B5 were 0.14 – 5.19 % (w/w), and the contents of vitamin B3 were higher in avarage (0.03 – 11.22 % (w/w)). The contents of vitamins B6, B7 and B12 were determined in 1 product with labeled contents (determined contents of B6: 0.557 % (w/w) and B12: 0.00088 % (w/w), B7 was not detected). We found that a higher price of the product is not (necessarily) associated with a higher content of vitamins and consequently with a better effect of the cosmetic product. 9 products had labeled content of B vitamins – the results showed that the determined content in 3 products deviated from the labeled one, in two products it was lower by about half. The results of a one-month stability study showed that vitamin B3 (in all but one of the tested products) was stable at both 20 ␃ and 40 ␃, and the stability of B5 was affected by elevated temperature. However, a higher price of the product was not associated with better stability of vitamins in the products. Vitamins B6 and B12 were both represented only in 1 product, so the observed instability of both vitamins at elevated temperature cannot be generalized.

Keywords:B-complex vitamins, content, cosmetic products, high-performance liquid chromatography, stability

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