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Vrednotenje združljivosti izbranih retinoidov in benzoil peroksida v kozmetičnih izdelkih
ID Križovnik, Nuša (Author), ID Roškar, Robert (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window, ID Temova Rakuša, Žane (Co-mentor)

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Abstract
Retinoidi so pogoste sestavine izdelkov za nego in zdravljenje aken, saj učinkovito zavirajo razvoj in zmanjšujejo količino lezij. Poleg retinoidov (retinol, retinal, retinil palmitat in retinil acetat), v terapiji aken pogosteje uporabljamo topikalni benzoil peroksid (BP), ki deluje keratolitično, antibakterijsko in protivnetno. Zaradi drugačnega mehanizma delovanja bi lahko z uporabo kombinacije retinoidov in BP dosegli bolj učinkovito zdravljenje aken. Ker v literaturi nismo zasledili podatkov o njuni združljivosti, je bil poglavitni namen diplomske naloge ovrednotiti združljivosti izbranih retinoidov in BP. Za ta namen smo uporabili predhodno razvito analizno metodo na osnovi tekočinske kromatografije visoke ločljivosti. Analizno metodo smo najprej optimizirali v smeri t.i. zelene kromatografije, jo ustrezno ovrednotili in s pomočjo stresnih testov potrdili njeno stabilnostno indikativnost. Sledil je razvoj in optimizacija priprave vzorcev za ekstrakcijo retinoidov iz štirih kozmetičnih izdelkov (KI) s kvantitativno navedeno vsebnostjo retinola ali hidroksipinakolon retinoata na ovojnini. Združljivost retinoidov in BP smo naprej vrednotili v raztopinah, nato pa v testiranih KI. Pri tem smo vrednotili vpliv dodatka različnih koncentracij BP, ki smo jih prilagodili ugotovljenim vsebnostim retinola v izdelkih in koncentracijam BP v izdelkih za terapijo aken. Ugotavljali smo tudi vpliv temperature ter dodatka antioksidanta in/ali vode na stabilnost retinoidov ob prisotnosti BP. V vseh vzorcih je prišlo do upada vsebnosti retinola. Na hitrost razgradnje retinoidov je vplivala zlasti koncentracija BP. Pri višjih koncentracijah je vsebnost retinola hitreje upadala in so bile raztopine manj stabilne. Stabilnost retinola je upočasnila nižja temperatura shranjevanja vzorcev (5 °C). Na njuno združljivost je vplival tudi medij, pri tem so bile najmanj stabilne vodne raztopine retinola brez dodatka antioksidanta butilhidroksitoluena. Z vrednotenjem njune združljivosti v KI smo prišli do podobnih zaključkov. V vseh izdelkih je vsebnost obeh retinoidov upadala, hitrejši upad smo zaznali pri večjem dodatku BP. Tudi v KI smo potrdili večji obseg razgradnje retinoidov pri višji temperaturi. Na osnovi rezultatov izvedene študije lahko povzamemo, da obravnavani retinoidi niso združljivi z BP, saj tudi najnižja preizkušena koncentracija BP povzroči njihovo nestabilnost in hitro razgradnjo.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:akne, benzoil peroksid, kompatibilnost, kozmetični izdelki, HPLC-UV, retinoidi, stabilnost
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Year:2021
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-129910 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:09.09.2021
Views:910
Downloads:130
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Compatibility evaluation of selected retinoids and benzoyl peroxide in cosmetic products
Abstract:
Retinoids are common ingredients in care and treatment products for acne prone skin, as they effectively inhibit the development and reduce the number of lesions. In addition to retinoids (retinol, retinal, retinyl palmitate and retinyl acetate), topical benzoyl peroxide (BP), which has keratolytic, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory effects, is more commonly used in acne therapy. Due to a different mechanism of action, using a combination of retinoid and BP could achieve a more effective acne treatment. As we did not find data on their compatibility in the available literature, the main objective of the diploma thesis was to evaluate the compatibility of selected retinoids and BP. For this purpose, we used previously developed analytical method, based on high-performance liquid chromatography. The assay method was optimized in the direction of green chromatography, evaluated, and had its stability indicative nature confirmed by means of stress tests. This was followed by the development and optimization of sample preparation for the extraction of retinoids from four cosmetic products, with a quantitatively stated content of retinol or hydroxypinacolone retinoate on the packaging. The compatibility of retinoids and BP was first evaluated in solutions and then in tested cosmetics. We evaluated the effect of BP addition in different concentrations, which were adjusted to the determined retinol contents in the cosmetic products and BP concentrations in acne treatment products. The effects of temperature and the addition of antioxidant and / or water on the stability of retinoids in the presence of BP were also evaluated. We found a decrease in retinol content in all samples. The rate of retinoid degradation was mainly influenced by BP concentration. With higher concentrations, the retinol content decreased more rapidly, and the solutions were less stable. The retinol degradation process was slowed by a lower sample storage temperature (5 °C). Their compatibility was also affected by the medium, with aqueous solutions of retinol without added antioxidant butylhydroxytoluene being the least stable. By evaluating their compatibility in cosmetic products, we came to similar conclusions. In all products, the content of both retinoids decreased, faster degradation was detected with a larger addition of BP. We also confirmed a greater extent of retinoid degradation in products at higher temperatures. Based on the obtained results, it can be concluded that the considered retinoids are not compatible with BP, as even the lowest tested concentration of BP causes their instability and rapid decay.

Keywords:acne, benzoyl peroxide, compatibility, cosmetics, HPLC-UV, retinoids, stability

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