Alternativno konzerviranje kozmetičnih izdelkov in pregled protimikrobnih sestavin v slovenski naravni kozmetiki

Berglez, Pia (author), Kočevar Glavač, Nina (mentor)

Delež naravne kozmetike v Sloveniji, podobno kot drugod po Evropi in svetu, narašča. Povpraševanje po naravnih izdelkih se veča, večja je tudi želja slovenskih kupcev po nakupu lokalno izdelanih proizvodov manjših ali butičnih proizvajalcev kozmetike. Problematika enotnega definiranja naravne in ekološke kozmetike vodi v zmedo pri potrošnikih in omogoča njihovo zavajanje s trditvami o izdelkih. Med najbolj izpostavljene sestavine s tega vidika sodijo konzervansi in druge protimikrobne sestavine, ki v izdelku med transportom, shranjevanjem in uporabo ohranjajo mikrobiološko stabilnost. Protimikrobne sestavine, ki niso definirane kot konzervansi z Uredbo (ES) št. 1223/2009 Evropskega parlamenta in Sveta z dne 30. novembra 2009 o kozmetičnih izdelkih, imenujemo tudi alternativni konzervansi. Ti imajo v kozmetičnem izdelku prvotno drugo funkcijo, zato se je zanje uveljavilo tudi ime multifunkcionalne sestavine. Temelj razvoja alternativnih pristopov h konzerviranju izdelkov naravne kozmetike je tehnologija ovir, ki se med drugim ukvarja z vključevanjem multifunkcionalnih sestavin v t. i. samokonzervirajoče kozmetične izdelke, ki ne vsebujejo klasičnih konzervansov. V nalogi smo predstavili problematiko definiranja naravne in ekološke kozmetike. Opisali smo strategije za ohranjanje mikrobiološke neoporečnosti izdelkov, ki se jih poslužujejo proizvajalci (klasično in alternativno konzerviranje), ter predstavili nova dognanja na področju alternativnega konzerviranja (tehnologija ovir, potenciatorji, sinergistično delovanje sestavin, aktivna ovojnina in dostavni sistemi). V praktičnem delu naloge smo predstavili trende konzerviranja naravne kozmetike slovenskih proizvajalcev, natančneje dnevnih krem za obraz, različnih cenovnih razredov. Pregledali smo 80 različnih izdelkov 50 slovenskih proizvajalcev. Ugotovili smo, da proizvajalci večinoma uporabljajo klasične konzervanse, v izdelke pa vključujejo tudi različne multifunkcionalne sestavine s protimikrobnim delovanjem. Ovojnina, v katero so izdelki pakirani, je večinoma iz steklenih in plastičnih materialov. Izdelki so pakirani v različne vrste ovojnine, tudi take, ki preprečuje sekundarno mikrobiološko kontaminacijo izdelka. Pregledali smo navedbe na ovojnini, ki se tičejo konzervansov in drugih sestavin s protimikrobnim delovanjem, ter ugotovili, da se proizvajalci poslužujejo navedb o izdelkih, ki niso skladne s smernicami trenutne zakonodaje.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: alternativno konzerviranje, kozmetična zakonodaja, naravna kozmetika, pregled trga, tehnologija ovir
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2021
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-129672
• Publication date in RUL: 07.09.2021

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Alternative preservation of cosmetic products and review of antimicrobial ingredients in Slovenian natural cosmetics

Abstract

The share of natural cosmetics in Slovenia and the rest of the world is growing. The demand for natural products is increasing, as is the desire of Slovenian customers to buy locally made products from smaller or boutique cosmetics manufacturers. The issue of uniformly defining natural and organic cosmetics leads to confusion among consumers, and opens up possibilities for misleading them with product claims. From this point of view the most exposed ingredients are preservatives and other antimicrobial ingredients that maintain microbiological stability in the product during transport, storage and use. Antimicrobial ingredients not defined as preservatives by Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products are also referred to as alternative preservatives. These originally have another function in the cosmetic product, which is why they are also reffered to as multifunctional ingredients. Hurdle technology deals with the incorporation of multifunctional ingredients in so-called self-preserving cosmetics and is the basis for the development of alternative approaches to preservation of natural cosmetics that do not contain classic preservatives. In this thesis, we present the issue of defining natural and organic cosmetics. We describe strategies for maintaining the microbiological integrity of products used by manufacturers (classical and alternative preservation) and present new findings in alternative preservation of cosmetic products (hurdle technology, preservative boosters, synergistic action of ingredients, active packaging and delivery systems). In the practical part of the thesis, we present trends of natural cosmetic products preservation from Slovenian manufacturers, specifically facial day creams from different price ranges. We reviewed 80 different products from 50 Slovenian manufacturers and found that the products are mostly preserved using classical chemical preservatives, but also include various multifunctional ingredients with antimicrobial action. Manufacturers mostly pack their products in plastic or glass containers and use different types of packaging, including airless packaging that prevents secondary microbial contamination of the product during use. We reviewed the information on the packaging concerning chemical preservatives and other ingredients with antimicrobial activity and found that manufacturers use cosmetic claims that do not comply with guidelines of current legislation.

• Keywords: alternative preservation, cosmetic legislation, hurdle technology, local market overview, natural cosmetics