UNIVERZA V LJUBLJANI
NARAVOSLOVNOTEHNIŠKA FAKULTETA
DIPLOMSKO DELO
NAJA STANIĆ
LJUBLJANA 2021
UNIVERZA V LJUBLJANI
NARAVOSLOVNOTEHNIŠKA FAKULTETA
ODDELEK ZA TEKSTILSTVO, GRAFIKO IN OBLIKOVANJE
KOLEKCIJA IZBRIŠIMO VIRUS
DIPLOMSKO DELO
NAJA STANIĆ
LJUBLJANA, junij 2021
UNIVERSITY OF LJUBLJANA
FACULTY OF NATURAL SCIENCES AND ENGINEERING
DEPARTMENT OF TEXTILES, GRAPHIC ARTS AND DESIGN
COLLECTION CANCEL THE VIRUS
DIPLOMA THESIS
NAJA STANIĆ
LJUBLJANA, June 2021
PODATKI O DIPLOMSKEM DELU
Število listov: 82
Število strani: 70
Število slik: 56
Število literaturnih virov: 62
Število prilog: 1
Študijski program: Univerzitetni študijski program (1. stopnja) Oblikovanje tekstilij in oblačil
Komisija za zagovor diplomskega dela:
Predsednica: prof. Karin Košak
Mentorica: prof. Elena Fajt
Članica: doc. Petja Zorec
Ljubljana, ………………………:
ZAHVALA
Zahvaljujem se profesorici Eleni Fajt za dobro mentorstvo pri diplomi. Prav tako se zahvaljujem vsem tehničnim sodelavkam za pomoč tekom študija. Hvala staršem, da sta mi študij omogočila, in šivilji Teji, ker mi je pomagala skozi leta. Hvala Jaki za vso moralno podporo med študijem. Hvala tudi Evi in Eriku, ki sta mi pomagala pri šiva-nju diplomske modne kolekcije. Predvsem hvala Evi in Tjažu iz cirkusa Mismo Nismo, da sta mi pomagala uprizoriti performans. Hvala Ajdi, ki je ta performans po-snela. Janu pa hvala, ker je hitro priskočil na pomoč pri urejanju zvoka v videu.
IZVLEČEK
Z diplomsko nalogo sem želela ustvariti kolekcijo, ki bi nas spodbujala k razmišljanju o problematiki plastike in koronavirusa. Za lažje razumevanje ideje in prezentacijo oblek sem naredila tudi performativni video.
V teoretičnem delu sem raziskovala razvoj cirkusa, da bi dobro razumela, kaj cirkus sploh je. Spoznala sem moderni cirkus in cirkus, kot ga poznamo danes, sodobni cirkus. Čeprav se sprva sliši, kot da sta enaka, je razlika ogromna. Raziskovanje me je pognalo naprej do umetnika Erwina Wurma, ki me je navdušil s svojo družbenokri-tično in bizarno estetiko. Njegovi kipi One Minute Sculptures so dodobra definirali vzdušje, ki sem ga želela uprizoriti v kolekciji in videu. Vedno bolj aktualna proble-matika onesnaževanja zemlje, predvsem s plastiko, je bila tema, ki je nisem mogla izpustiti. Modna industrija je ena od največjih onesnaževalcev planeta, zato se kot bodoča modna oblikovalka počutim dolžno upoštevati trajnostne vidike dela. Traj-nostna naravnanost je v času epidemije še pomembnejša. Trajnost sem prepoznala kot eno od načinov delovanja reševanja pandemije, ker sem mnenja, da če ne bi to-liko izkoriščali zemeljskih virov in bi živeli v sožitju z naravo, morda do virusa sploh ne bi prišlo. Podobnost s pandemijo sem zaznala v plastiki, ki jo vidim kot virus, ki se je razširil po celem svetu. Ljudi zato nagovarjam, naj zmanjšajo uporabo plastike in živijo na čim bolj trajnosten način. Kolekcija ne govori samo o zmanjšanju porabe plastike, ampak je večja prispodoba o tem, da na vseh kotičkih (ne samo, ko gre za plastiko) svoje potrošnje skušamo delovati na način, da ne ogrožamo narave, ljudi okoli nas in prihodnjih generacij.
V praktičnem delu sem poskušala vsa spoznanja in ugotovitve teoretičnega dela povezati v celoto. Kolekcija torej predstavlja bojevnike, upornike, alternativce, ki se borijo proti »virusu plastike«. Ustvarjeno vzdušje je absurdno in groteskno (postapo-kaliptično), same obleke pa tudi. S tehniko upcikliranja, uporabo gurten, zaponk, mask in razbarvanjem tekstila so oblačila dobila surov videz, ki opozarja na destruk-tivni vpliv prekomerne rabe plastike na okolje. Performerji v videu, ki po začetni brez-brižnosti in igranju s plastiko doživijo hevreka trenutek in se pričnejo zavedati nega-tivnega vpliva plastike, simbolizirajo miselni preobrat, ki bi ga moral doživeti sleherni posameznik ob vsakodnevnem ravnanju s plastiko. Cirkusanti želijo s svojimi cirku-škimi prvinami svoje odkritje prenesti na gledalca. Kolekcija je torej oblikovana tako, da preko zabave (»trikov«) priča o resni problematiki prekomerne uporabe plastike.
Cilj kolekcije je opominjanje potrošnikov na problematiko plastike in njihovo osebno odgovornost do okolja. Ozaveščanje poteka s pomočjo tehnike upcikliranja in razbar-vanih obrisov plastičnih podob na oblačilih.
Ključne besede: virus, plastika, trajnost, performans, cirkus.
ABSTRACT
With the graduation thesis, I wanted to create a collection that would encourage us to think about the issue of plastics and coronavirus. For easier understanding of the idea and presentation of clothes, I made a performative video.
In the theoretical part, I researched the circus development in order to develop a deep understanding of circus. I met a modern circus and a circus as we know today. Even though they look the same, the difference is enormous. The exploration pro-pelled me forward to the artist Erwin Wurm, who impressed me with his socially criti-cal and bizarre aesthetics. His statues One Minute Sculptures well defined the at-mosphere I wanted to present in the collection and video. The increasingly topical issue of soil pollution, especially with plastics, was a topic I could not leave out. The fashion industry is one of the biggest polluters on the planet. So, as a future fashion designer I feel obligated to consider the sustainable aspects of work. A sustainable attitude is even more important in the period of epidemics. I recognized sustainability as one of the ways of working in resolving the pandemics, as it is my opinion, that if we did not exploit earth resources so much and lived in harmony with nature, the virus might not have occurred at all. I noticed the similarity between the pandemic and plastics, as I see the latter as a virus that has spread all over the globe, too. I am therefore urging people to reduce plastic use and live in a more sustainable way. The collection is not limited to the issue of reducing plastic use, but it is a metaphor about trying to act in a better way towards nature, the people around us and the fu-ture generations in all aspects of our consumption, not only when it comes to plastic.
In the empirical part, I wanted to connect all the results and findings from the theo-retical part. The collection therefore represents warriors, rebels, alternatives who are fighting the "virus of plastics”. The atmosphere created is absurd and grotesque, and so are the dresses themselves. Through the technique of recycling, the use of straps, buckles, masks and the discoloration of textiles, the dresses have been given a raw look, drawing attention to the destructive impact of excessive use of plastic on the environment. The performers in the video, who, after a moment of indifference, experience a eureka moment and start playing with plastic and become aware of the negative impact of plastic, symbolize the mental change that every individual should experience in dealing with plastic on a daily basis. Circus performers want to pass on their discovery to the viewer with their circus elements. The collection is therefore designed in such a way that, through entertainment ("tricks"), it testifies the serious problem of excessive use of plastic.
The objective of the collection is to remind the consumers of the issue of plastics and their personal responsibility for the environment. Awareness raising happens through the technique of recycling and discoloured outlines of plastic images on clothing.
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