Primerjava himalajskega in alpskega stila plezanja v slovenskih himalajskih odpravah : magistrsko delo

Lužovec, Žiga (author), Jereb, Blaž (mentor), Pavlin, Tomaž (co-mentor)

Namen magistrskega dela je bil analizirati vse slovenske vzpone v Himalaji (cilj vrh gore), ki so bili izvedeni med leti 1960 (prva slovenska himalajska odprava) in 2016, ko je bil izdan zadnji spletni zbornik "Slovenski alpinizem". Želeli smo ugotoviti, kateri stil plezanja (himalajski, alpski stil plezanja) je bil za Slovence uspešnejši in varnejši. Poleg tega smo želeli ugotoviti, kateri stil plezanja slabše deluje na okolje in pri katerem se v večji meri uporablja dodatni kisik. Podatke o vzponih v obdobju med leti 1960 in 2016 smo pridobili na spletni strani Planinske zveze Slovenije (Slovenci v Himalaji od leta 1954 do 2013) ter v spletnih zbornikih "Slovenski alpinizem". Poleg tega smo mnenja o posameznem stilu plezanja pridobili tudi od znanih slovenskih alpinistov, ki so bili člani nekaterih od teh odprav. Ugotovili smo, da je bilo v tem obdobju opravljenih 355 vzponov; 247 jih je bilo opravljenih v alpskem stilu, 108 pa v himalajskem stilu plezanja. Pri alpskem stilu plezanja so alpinisti glavni cilj (vrh gore) dosegli v 70,45% primerih, kar pomeni, da je ta stil plezanja za Slovence nekoliko uspešnejši, saj so pri himalajskem stilu vrh dosegli le v 66,67% primerih. Pri alpskem stilu plezanja je v 3,24% prišlo do smrtne nesreče, pri himalajskem stilu plezanja pa v 15,74%, kar pomeni, da je alpski stil plezanja tudi varnejši. Poleg tega smo ugotovili, da so Slovenci dodatni kisik uporabljali izključno pri himalajskem stilu plezanja, in še to samo pri 15,74% vseh vzponov. Za zaključek smo potrdili hipotezo, da himalajski stil plezanja bolj onesnažuje okolje, s čimer se strinjajo vsi znani slovenski alpinisti, ki so sodelovali pri anketi.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: slovenski alpinizem, Himalaja, stila plezanja, dodatni kisik, onesnaževanje okolja
• Work type: Master's thesis/paper
• Typology: 2.09 - Master's Thesis
• Organization: FŠ - Faculty of Sport
• Year: 2021
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-127424
• COBISS.SI-ID: 86178563
• Publication date in RUL: 06.06.2021

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Comparison of himalayan and alpine climbing style in slovenian himalayan expeditions

Abstract

The purpose of the master's thesis was to analyze all Slovenian ascents in the Himalayas (goal top of the mountain), which were carried out between 1960 (the first Slovenian Himalayan expedition) and 2016, when the last online collection "Slovenian mountaineering" was published. We wanted to find out which style of climbing (himalayan style, alpine style of climbing) was more successful and safer for Slovenes. In addition, we wanted to find out which style of climbing has a worse effect on the environment and which uses more oxygen. Data on ascents in the period between 1960-2016 were obtained on the website of the Mountaineering Association of Slovenia (Slovenes in the Himalayas from 1954 to 2013) and on the online collection "Slovenian mountaineering". In addition, we obtained opinions on individual climbing styles from well-known Slovenian alpinists who were members of some of these expeditions. We found that 355 ascents were made during this period, 247 were done in alpine style, 108 of them were done in Himalayan style climbing. In the alpine style of climbing, alpinists achieved the main goal (top of the mountain) in 70.45% of cases, which means that this style of climbing is slightly more successful for Slovenes, as in the Himalayan style they reached the top only in 66.67% of cases. The alpine style of climbing resulted in a fatal accident in 3.24%, and the Himalayan style of climbing in 15.74%, which means that the alpine style of climbing is also safer. In addition, we found that Slovenes used additional oxygen exclusively in the Himalayan style of climbing, and only in 15.74% of all ascents. In conclusion, we confirmed the hypothesis that the Himalayan style of climbing pollutes the environment more, with which all well-known Slovenian alpinists who participated in the survey agree.

• Keywords: slovenian alpinism, Himalaya, mountaineering styles, supplemental oxygen, environmental pollution