Proučevanje sestave micelarnih vod za čiščenje kože obraza

Artnjak, Diana (author), Ahlin Grabnar, Pegi (mentor)

Čiščenje je ključni korak nege kože. Na trgu lahko najdemo izdelke namenjene različnim tipom kože in izbiramo med različnimi tehnološkimi oblikami, v katerih se nahajajo. Vsi pa imajo v osnovi enak namen – s kože odstraniti nečistoče obraza, ki se na njej akumulirajo tekom dneva, odmrle celice ter ostanke kozmetičnih izdelkov. S tem ohranjamo optimalno fiziološko stanje kože in jo ustrezno pripravimo za nadaljnji nanos negovalnih izdelkov. S pretiranim ali neustreznim čiščenjem lahko ravnovesje kože tudi porušimo, zato je ob obilici izdelkov, ki so nam na voljo, potreben kritičen pristop k izbiri in uporabi le-teh. Novi trendi v skupini kozmetičnih izdelkov za čiščenje kože obraza težijo v smeri enostavne in hitre uporabe ter več-funkcionalnosti izdelka. V diplomski nalogi smo se osredotočili na micelarne vode, ki jih najdemo v slovenskih drogerijah, lekarnah in v spletnih trgovinah. Poleg učinkovitega čiščenja nudijo koži vlažilno nego in delujejo tudi kot toniki, pri uporabi pa jih naj ne bi bilo potrebno spirati. Pri izbranih izdelkih smo preverili, katere površinsko aktivne snovi ter vlažila se pojavljajo v njih. Pozornost smo namenili tudi konzervansom, rastlinskim izvlečkom, dišavam in ostalim prisotnim pomožnim sestavinam, ki pripomorejo h kakovosti izdelka. Po pregledu 54-ih izdelkov smo v vseh pričakovano zasledili neionske površinsko aktivne snovi, ki veljajo za koži najbolj prijazne. V kombinaciji z njimi najdemo tudi amfoterne, medtem ko predstavnikov anionskih površinsko aktivnih snovi ni. Vlažila so bila prisotna v vseh izdelkih, med njimi pa najpogostejši glicerol. Zaradi velike vsebnosti vode so ključnega pomena konzervansi, ki izdelkom zagotavljajo ustrezno mikrobiološko kakovost. Med njimi je bil najpogosteje uporabljen natrijev benzoat, prisotne pa so bile še druge sestavine s protimikrobnim delovanjem. Med njimi smo pogosto zasledili alkohol, ki kožo pri daljšem izpostavljanju izsušuje. Tudi dišave in rastlinski izvlečki, ki lahko pri določenih posameznikih izzovejo draženje, so bile pogoste komponente micelarnih vod. Za konec smo pregledali številne navedbe, ki jih zasledimo v sklopu obravnavanih izdelkov. Najpogosteje smo zasledili trditev, da micelarnih vod po uporabi ni potrebno spirati. Kljub temu, bi bilo spiranje priporočljivo, saj so prisotne čistilne snovi v določeni meri sposobne reagirati s komponentami kože.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: kozmetični izdelki za čiščenje kože obraza, micelarne vode, površinsko aktivne snovi, iritanti
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2020
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-122950
• Publication date in RUL: 18.12.2020

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: A study of face wash micellar waters’ composition

Abstract

Cleansing is a key part in every skin care routine. There are products that exist in different forms, designed for every skin type. All, however, strive to reach the same goal – to remove impurities that accumulate during the day, dead skin cells and product residue from the skin. This ensures our skin stays in an optimal physiological state and we have a clean canvas, ready for application of other cosmetic products. Inadequate or excessive cleansing can cause an imbalance in our skin. Therefore, it is crucial to choose and use our products wisely. Emerging trends among face wash products demand easy to use multifunctional cleansers. In our thesis, we focused on micellar waters available in Slovenian drug stores, pharmacies and online. In addition to efficient cleansing, they moisturize the skin, act as toners and are advertised as leave-on products. We have studied the present surfactants and humectants among the chosen micellar waters, as well as preservatives, plant extracts, fragrances and other secondary ingredients, that improve the finished products` quality. In all 54 cases, the used surfactants were non-ionic and are as such the most skin-friendly option. In some cases, they are also coupled with amphoteric surfactants, yet no anionic surfactants were present. Humectants are found in all chosen micellar waters, among which the most used is glycerine. Preservatives are key ingredients for achieving microbiological quality standards, due to the high water content. Most often sodium benzoate is used. Other ingredients with antimicrobial properties were also frequently found, such as alcohol, for example, which is infamous for being able to dry out our skin. Fragrance and plant extracts can cause irritation in some cases, yet they are common ingredients in chosen products. Finally, we examined what are some of the most frequently used claims regarding micellar waters. One that stands out most states that rinsing off micellar waters is not necessary. Regardless, rinsing the product off could be beneficial, as present surfactants can interact with skin components.

• Keywords: face wash cosmetic products, micellar waters, surfactants, irritants