A tan look is one of the most recent and popular beauty trends in today's modern society. At the same time, people are more aware of the harmful effects of sunbathing and UV-radiated indoor tanning. The consumer's desire for a healthy bronze skin tone has provoked cosmetic scientists to start looking for alternatives, which has lead to the rise of self tanning cosmetic products. In this diploma thesis we investigated self tanning cosmetic products that are available on the Slovenian market in drugstores and pharmacies as well as in online shops. We examined the main active cosmetic ingredients which provide a skin tan without exposure to UV radiation and their mechanism of action. We also investigated the secondary actives, such as humectants, emollients, antioxidants and UV-filters, different producers used in their cosmetic formulations with the aim to emphasize the effect of the product and ensure a homogenous and long lasting result. Furthermore, we analysed cosmetic excipients like preservatives, viscosity modifiers and silicons, since microbiological quality, appropriate consistency and sensory properties represent the most important factors while formulating and later in the time of usage of self tanning cosmetics. All of the 70 examined cosmetic products contained dihydroxyacetone, the main active ingredient for the self tanning of skin; another ingredient with the same mechanism of action was erythrulose, which was detected in fewer products. The most frequently used humectants were glycerin and butylene glycol. When choosing emollients, the majority of cosmetic formulators opted for glyceryl stearate and the triglyceride of caprylic and capric acids. Among the antioxidants, the most frequent were tocopherol and tocopheryl acetate. Some of the investigated products also included UV-filters, mostly benzyl salicylate and titanium dioxide. Discussing the excipients, phenoxyethanol as a preservative, viscosity modifier xanthan gum and dimethicone from the silicone group predominated in our chosen products.
|
