Proučevanje sestave kozmetičnih izdelkov za posvetlitev kože

Žabota, Urška (author), Ahlin Grabnar, Pegi (mentor)

Enakomerna polt kože je ideal različnih rasnih in etničnih skupin. Motnje pigmentacije so ene izmed najpogostejših vzrokov za obisk dermatologov in lahko resno vplivajo na samopodobo in kvaliteto življenja prizadetih, zato se v kozmetični industriji strokovnjaki aktivno ukvarjajo z iskanjem in razvojem učinkovitih in varnih posvetlitvenih sredstev. Na pojav motenj hiperpigmentacij, za katere je značilna povečana sinteza melanina, lahko vplivajo različni eksogeni in endogeni dejavniki. Med njimi je najizrazitejši vpliv UV sevanja, zato se je pomembno pred njim ustrezno zaščititi. Nagnjenost k motnjam je povezana tudi s fototipom kože: melazma in postinflamatorna hiperpigmentacija sta pogostejši pri temnejših fototipih, kožne pege pa pri svetlejših. V diplomski nalogi smo proučevali 50 kozmetičnih izdelkov za posvetlitev kože dostopnih na slovenskem trgu in pozornost posvetili kozmetično aktivnim sestavinam, ter nekaterim pomožnim sestavinami. Najštevilčnejša oblika izbranih kozmetičnih izdelkov je bila krema. Ugotovili smo, da se med sestavinami za posvetlitev v izbranih izdelkih najpogosteje pojavlja niacinamid (24 %), ki zavira prenos melanosomov v keratinocite. Med zaviralci tirozinaze, ki je ključni encim v sintezi melanina, je bil najpogostejši izvleček golostebelnega sladkega korena (Glycyrrhiza glabra) (20 %). Med antioksidanti, ki zavirajo oksidacijske procese v izdelkih in koži, je bila najpogostejša etilendiamintetraocetna kislina (44 %), ki se uporablja za zaščito sestavin pred oksidacijo, med kozmetično aktivnimi pa α-tokoferol (38 %). Med sestavinami, ki pospešijo obnovo kože je prevladala salicilna kislina (18 %), ki je tudi ena izmed najpogostejših konzervansov. Pri dišavah smo se osredotočili na tiste, ki morajo biti po Uredbi (ES) Evropskega parlamenta in Sveta 1223/2009 o kozmetičnih izdelkih označene na seznamu sestavin izdelkov. Najpogostejša izmed njih je bila linalol (20 %). V 44 % izdelkov je bil naveden le izraz ʺparfumʺ. Brez dišav in parfuma je bilo 46 % izdelkov. Veliko teh je vsebovalo eterična olja, od katerih se je največkrat pojavilo eterično olje pomela (Citrus grandis) (6 %). Izmed konzervansov, ki so dovoljeni v prilogi V prej omenjene Uredbe, je največ izdelkov vsebovalo fenoksietanol (48 %), 24 % izdelkov pa ni vsebovalo dovoljenih konzervansov. UV filtre vsebuje 18 % izbranih izdelkov. Delimo jih na organske, med katerimi je bil v izdelkih glavni predstavnik etilheksil metoksicinamat (12 %) in anorganske, z najpogostejšim titanovim dioksidom (8 %).

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: hiperpigmentacija, melanin, posvetlitev kože, tirozinaza, UV sevanje
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2020
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-119191
• Publication date in RUL: 04.09.2020

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: A study of cosmetic products composition for skin lightening

Abstract

Even skin tone is an ideal in different racial and ethnic groups. Hyperpigmentation disorders are one of the most common reasons for seeing dermatologists and can seriously affect the self-esteem and quality of life of those affected. That's why experts in the cosmetic industry are actively engaged in finding and developing effective and safe skin lightening agents. The occurrence of hyperpigmentation disorders which are characterized by increased melanin synthesis, can be influenced by various exogenous and endogenous factors. Among them the most pronounced is the effect of UV radiation, so adequate protection is important. Predisposition to the disorders is also associated with skin phototype: melasma and postinflammatory hyperpigmentation are more common in darker phototypes while freckles and lentigines are more common in lighter ones. This diploma thesis studied the composition of 50 skin lightening cosmetic products on the Slovenian market. We paid attention to active ingredients and some auxiliary ingredients. Cream was the most prevalent form of selected cosmetic products. We found that niacinamide (24 %) which inhibits the transfer of melanosomes to epidermal keratinocytes was the most common of the skin lightening ingredients. Among tyrosinase inhibitors, a key enzyme in melanogenesis, the most common lightening ingredient was licorice root extract (Glycyrrhiza glabra) (20 %). Among antioxidants that inhibit oxidation processes in cosmetic products and skin, the most common was ethylenediaminetetraacetic acid (44 %), which is used to protect labile ingredients from oxidation. Among active antioxidants the most common was α-tocopherol (38 %). Salicylic acid (18 %), which is also one of the most common preservatives, predominated among the ingredients that accelerate skin regeneration. For fragrances, we focused on those that must be labeled in the list of product ingredients under Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products. The most common of these was linalool (20 %). 44 % of the products contained ʺperfumeʺ and 46 % of the products didn't contain previously mentioned fragrances or perfume. Many of these contained essential oils, of which the most common was the essential oil of pomelo (Citrus grandis) (6 %). Of the preservatives listed in Annex V to the aforementioned Regulation, most products contained phenoxyethanol (48 %) and 24 % did not contain the listed preservatives. UV filters are contained in 18 % of selected products. They are divided into organic, among which the main representative in the products was ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate (12 %) and inorganic, with the most common titanium dioxide (8 %).

• Keywords: hyperpigmentation, melanin, tyrosinase, skin lightening, UV radiation