Analiza kozmetično aktivnih sestavin v dermokozmetiki za aktivno nego starejše kože

Mužina, Karolina (author), Gašperlin, Mirjana (mentor)

Staranje je kompleksen biološki proces, ki mu ne moremo ubežati in zajame vse plasti kože. Spremeni se tekstura povrhnjice, usnjice in podkožja. Spremembe so skupek intrinzičnega (kronološkega) staranja, ki je genetsko pogojeno, in ekstrinzičnega oziroma fotostaranja, ki je posledica kumulativne izpostavitve zunanjim dejavnikom tekom življenja. Zaradi želje po ohranjanju mladega videza kože se na področju kozmetologije razvijajo številni kozmetični izdelki, ki vsebujejo različne aktivne sestavine, katerih namen je preprečiti in zmanjšati posledice staranja. V diplomski nalogi bomo analizirali kozmetične izdelke in v njih prisotne kozmetično aktivne sestavine za aktivno nego starejše kože. Kozmetične izdelke smo poiskali v lekarnah po Sloveniji ter ob tem izvzeli tiste, ki so narejeni v galenskih laboratorijih. Na njihovih spletnih straneh smo pridobili podatke o kozmetično aktivnih sestavinah in jih razdelili glede na mehanizem delovanja ter učinek, ki ga izkazujejo na zreli koži. Ugotovili smo, da je v slovenskih lekarnah na voljo veliko različnih kozmetičnih izdelkov, namenjenih aktivni negi starejše kože. Najpogosteje prisotna kozmetično aktivna sestavina v njih so antioksidanti, sledijo jim kozmecevtični vlažilci, peptidi in proteini, retinoidi ter sestavine za posvetlitev kože. Antioksidant vitamin E in njegovi derivati so uspešni lovilci prostih radikalov, ki se nahajajo v več kot polovici pregledanih kozmetičnih izdelkov. Najpogostejši vlažilec je hialuronska kislina, ki v svojo strukturo veže vodo, zaradi česar je koža navzven videti napeta. Kot vlažilec deluje tudi kolagen, ki se pojavlja najpogosteje med proteini, medtem ko so v večjem številu izbranih izdelkov prisotni peptidi. Njihova uporaba v kozmetičnih izdelkih je v zadnjem času precej popularna, saj so učinkoviti pri glajenju gub. Zlati standard v negi zrele kože so zagotovo retinoidi, predvsem retinol, ki stimulirajo proliferacijo živih plasti epidermisa in izboljšajo videz kože. V boju proti hiperpigmentacijam se uporabljajo belilna sredstva, kot so azelainska kislina, vitamina C in E, niacinamid, izvleček sladkega korena, izobutilamid tiazolil rezorcinol in hidroksi kisline. Ugotovitve, do katerih smo prišli v diplomski nalogi, so v skladu s strokovno literaturo, ki navaja, da so ključne kozmetično aktivne sestavine za aktivno nego starejše kože prav antioksidanti, katerih količina je v izbranih kozmetičnih izdelkih bistveno večja od ostalih kozmetično aktivnih sestavin (retinoidov, kozmecevtičnih vlažilcev, peptidov in proteinov ter belilnih sredstev).

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: kozmetično aktivne sestavine, antioksidanti, staranje, gube, suha koža, pigmentacija
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2020
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-118223
• Publication date in RUL: 27.08.2020

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Analysis of cosmetic active substances in dermocosmetics for active care of ageing skin

Abstract

Ageing is a complex inevitable biological process that covers all skin layers. The structure of epidermis, dermis and subcutaneous tissue changes. These changes are a combination of genetically determined intrinsic (chronological) ageing and extrinsic ageing or photoaging, which is a result of cumulative exposure to external factors. Due to the desire to maintain young looking skin, many cosmetic products with various active substances are being developed in the field of cosmetology in order to prevent or reduce the effects of ageing. In the diploma thesis we will analyse cosmetic products and their cosmetic active substances for active care of ageing skin. We searched for cosmetic products in pharmacies across Slovenia, excluding products made in galenic laboratories. We obtained information about cosmetic active substances on their websites and divided them according to the mechanism of action and the effect they give on ageing skin. We found out that many cosmetic products for active care of ageing skin are available in pharmacies in Slovenia. The most commonly present cosmetic active substances are antioxidants, followed by cosmeceutical moisturizers, peptides and proteins, retinoids and whitening agents. The antioxidant vitamin E and its derivates are successful radical scavengers that are found in more than half of the review cosmetic products. The most common moisturizer is hyaluronic acid, which binds many water molecules into its structure and consequently tightens the skin. Collagen, which frequently occurs among proteins, also has a good moisturizing role. On the contrary, peptides are present in large numbers, due to their popular use lately as they effectively smooth wrinkles. Golden standard in care of ageing skin are certainly retinoids, especially retinol,), which stimulate proliferation of viable epidermis and improve the appearance of the skin. Whitening agents such as azelaic acid, vitamin C and E, niacinamide, licorice extract, isobutylamido thiazolyl resorcinol and hydroxy acids are used in order to combat hyperpigmentation. The findings of the diploma thesis are in accordance with professional literature, which states that the key cosmetic active substances for active care of older skin are antioxidants. Their amount in selected cosmetic products is significantly higher than other cosmetic active substances (retinoids, cosmeceutical moisturizers, peptides and proteins and whitening agents).

• Keywords: cosmetic active substances, antioxidants, ageing, wrinkles, dry skin, pigmentation