Prilagoditev postopkov določanja permeabilnosti sestavin eteričnih olj skozi kožo prašičjega uhlja in vitro

Potočnik, Neja (author), Žakelj, Simon (mentor)

Eterična olja in spojine iz njih so pogosto uporabljene sestavine kozmetičnih izdelkov. Imajo različne funkcije v kozmetiki, kot so odišavljanje izdelkov, antiseptično in antioksidantno delovanje. Poleg pomirjevalnega učinka so lahko nekatere spojine dražeče za kožo, zato nas je zanimalo, v kolikšni meri sestavine eteričnih olj lipofilne narave prehajajo skozi kožo, saj je penetracija skozi kožo zaradi njene raznolike strukture in barierne funkcije vprašljiva. Cilj diplomske naloge je bil ovrednotiti prehod spojin iz eteričnih olj skozi kožno bariero. Ključnega pomena je bila optimizacija nekaterih postopkov pri in vitro poskusu s Franzovimi difuzijskimi celicami, s pomočjo katerega smo posnemali prehod preiskovanih spojin skozi kožo in pri pripravi vzorcev za analizo s plinskim kromatografom (GC-FID). V raziskavi smo uporabili sistem Franzovih difuzijskih celic, pri katerem smo potrebovali zamrznjeno kožo prašičjega uhlja, ki je služila kot človeški koži najbolj podobna membrana za zagotavljanje barierne funkcije kože, Miglyol 812 kot topilo za spojine iz eteričnih olj in izotonični fosfatni pufer z dodatki različnih površinsko aktivnih snovi, ki so omogočale prehod iz lipofilne donorske raztopine v hidrofilni akceptorski medij. Vzorce smo v roku 24 ur vzorčili v enajstih časovnih točkah in smo jih po koncu poskusa s pomočjo ekstrakcije v medij za analizo z GC in koncentriranjem vzorcev v vakuumu pripravili za analizo s plinskim kromatografom. Ugotovili smo, katere površinsko aktivne snovi in v kakšnih koncentracijah delujejo najbolj optimalno kot dodatek k fosfatnemu pufru, da spojine iz eteričnih olj prehajajo kožno bariero in se raztapljajo v akceptorskem mediju. Po analizi z GC-FID smo ugotovili, da so koncentracije v vzorcih izjemno nizke, zato bi bilo v prihodnosti potrebno razviti postopke priprave vzorcev, povišati koncentracijo preiskovanih spojin v donorskem delu in izbrati občutljivejše metode analize.

• Language: Slovenian
• Keywords: Eterično olje, permeabilnost, koža prašičjega uhlja, Franzove difuzijske celice, plinska kromatografija, dermalna absorpcija, limonen, linalol, linalil acetat, kafra, mentol, optimizacija postopkov za določanje permeabilnosti, površinsko aktivna snov
• Work type: Bachelor thesis/paper
• Organization: FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
• Year: 2020
• PID: 20.500.12556/RUL-117400
• Publication date in RUL: 09.07.2020

Secondary language

• Language: English
• Title: Adaptation of procedures for permeability determination of essential oil components through porcine ear skin in vitro

Abstract

Essential oils and their components are often used in cosmetic products. They have different functions in cosmetic products as they are added for their antiseptical and antioxidant effects as well as perfumes. Although they often have soothing effect on skin some of the essential oil components can be irritating on skin. This is why we were interested in evaluating permeability of lipophilic components from essential oils through skin because of it's diverse structure which presents natural physical barrier for human body. Our goal was to evaluate permeability of essential oil components through skin barrier. The key task of our work was to optimize some of the procedures in in vitro testing with Franz diffusion cells. With this experiment we imitated transition of essential oil components through skin substitute and we optimized some of the procedures for preparing samples from experiment to be suitable for further analysis with Gas chromatography. During our work we used system of Franz diffusion cells which required frozen porcine ear skin as it was the most suitable and similar substitute for human skin. We also used Miglyol 812 as solvent for essential oil components and isotonic phosphate-buffered saline with addition of different surfactants which enabled transition of lipophilic components from donor solution to hydrophilic acceptor medium. We took 11 paralel samples at 11 different time points during experiment that lasted for 24 hours. Then we extracted samples in GC analysis medium and concetrated samples in vacuum for GC analysis. We determined which surfactants and what concentrations of them are the most optimal for use as addition to phosphate-buffered saline to enable essential oil components penetrate skin barrier and dissolve in acceptor medium. After GC-FID analysis we realized that concentrations in samples were too low, which brings us to optimizing procedures in sample preparation in the future, increase concetration of essential oil components in donor solution or use more sensitive methods of analysis.

• Keywords: Essential oil, permeability, porcine ear skin, Franz diffusion cells, gas chromatography, dermal absorption, limonene, linalool, linalyl acetate, camphor, menthol, optimization of procedures for permeability determination, surfactant