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Pregled kozmetičnih sestavin v dekorativnih izdelkih za nohte in ugotavljanje njihove varnosti
ID Colja, Eva (Author), ID Zega, Anamarija (Mentor) More about this mentor... This link opens in a new window, ID Sollner Dolenc, Marija (Comentor)

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Abstract
Čisti, negovani in urejeni nohti vplivajo na dobro počutje in samozavest človeka. Za olepšanje nohtov uporabljamo dekorativne izdelke za nohte, ki so namenjeni obarvanju nohtov. Osnovne sestavine dekorativnih izdelkov za nohte so polimeri, topila, mehčala, barvila oz. pigmenti, zgoščevala in UV-filtri. V izdelkih se nahajajo 4 skupine sestavin, barvila, UV-filtri, dišave in konzervansi, ki so v Uredbi (ES) št. 1223/2009 posebej obravnavane v prilogah. Te sestavine lahko že v nizkih koncentracijah lahko povzročajo neželene učinke, predvsem preobčutljivostne reakcije. V dekorativnih izdelkih za nohte najdemo tudi ftalate, ki vplivajo na delovanje endokrinega sistema. Ker vse te spojine vzbujajo pomisleke glede njihove varnosti, smo se odločili za njihov podrobnejši pregled. Preverili smo njihovo prisotnost v izdelkih ter ugotavljali, katere sestavine se najpogosteje pojavljajo v izdelkih. V raziskavo smo vključili 103 dekorativne izdelke za nohte, ki smo jih našli na slovenskem tržišču v raznih drogerijah ter v spletnih trgovinah. Rezultati so pokazali, da je največ izdelkov vsebovalo barvila (98,1 % pregledanih izdelkov). UV-filtre smo našli v 64,1 % pregledanih izdelkov, ftalate pa pri 42,7 % pregledanih izdelkov, 9 izdelkov je vsebovalo dišave, najmanj izdelkov pa konzervanse. V izbranih izdelkih smo našli 39 različnih vrst barvil, najpogosteje je bilo prisotno barvilo CI 15850 – pigment rdeče 57. Med UV-filtri je bil najpogosteje prisoten benzofenon-1. V izdelkih smo našli 10 vrst različnih dišav, ki spadajo med 26 potrjeno alergenih dišav. Izmed ftalatov se je najpogosteje pojavil polietilen tereftalat. Iz vsake od skupin sestavin (barvila, UV-filtri, dišave, konzervansi in ftalati) smo izbrali sestavine, ki se najpogosteje nahajajo v KI in na osnovi toksikološkega profila ovrednotili njihovo varnost. Glede na akutno izpostavitev kot najvarnejše barvilo uvrstimo CI 15850 – pigment rdeče 57. Izmed UV-filtrov je v primeru akutne izpostavitve sicer najvarnejši benzofenon-1, ker pa so v študijah in vitro na človeških celicah zaznali spremenjeno delovanje hormonov, ga ne moremo razvrstiti med zelo varne sestavine. Ocenili smo, da je izmed najpogosteje prisotnih dišav najbolj varen za uporabo benzil alkohol, saj lahko povzroči draženje kože le pri pogostem stiku. Limonen je uvrščen med najbolj pogoste kontaktne alergene, geraniol pa lahko povzroči alergijski kontaktni dermatitis. Izmed konzervansov je najbolj varen fenoksietanol, saj ni genotoksičen, ni karcinogen, kot reproduktivno toksičen pa se je izkazal na živalih le pri visokih koncentracijah. Pri pregledu ftalatov smo za bolj varnega ocenili polietilen tereftalat, saj ne izkazuje genotoksičnega delovanja, ne draži kože in ni reproduktivno toksičen. Zaključimo lahko, da so izdelki s sestavinami, ki smo jih obravnavali v raziskavi, še vedno varni za uporabo, če vsebnost teh sestavin ne presega predpisanih koncentracij, ki so določene v Uredbi (ES) o kozmetičnih izdelkih št. 1223/2009.

Language:Slovenian
Keywords:nohti, dekorativni izdelki za nohte, barvila, ftalati, varnost
Work type:Bachelor thesis/paper
Organization:FFA - Faculty of Pharmacy
Year:2020
PID:20.500.12556/RUL-114244 This link opens in a new window
Publication date in RUL:20.02.2020
Views:1327
Downloads:426
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Secondary language

Language:English
Title:Review of cosmetic ingredients in decorative products for nails and their safety evaluation
Abstract:
Clean, well-groomed and tidy nails affect on person´s well-being and confidence. To enhance the appearance of human nails, we use decorative products for nails, which are designed to color the nail plate. Decorative products for nails contain 6 primary ingredients: resins, solvents, plasticizers, colorants, thixotropic agents and UV-filters. There are four groups of ingredients in the products, colorants, UV-filters, fragrances and preservatives, which are listed in Annexes in Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009. They can cause adverse effects at low concentrations, especially sensitization. In decorative products for nails we also find phthalates, which are endocrine disruptors. Because all of these compounds raise concerns about their safety, we decided to study them in a more detailed way. We checked their presence in the products and found out which ingredients most commonly appear in products. The research included 103 decorative products for nails, that were found on the Slovenian market in various cosmetics shops and online stores. The results showed, that the most products contained dyes (98,1 % of all the test products). UV-filters were found in 64,8 % of all the test products and phthalates in 42,7 % of examined products. Fragrances appeared in 9 products, and only a few products contained preservatives. In the reviewed products we found 39 different types of dyes, the most commonly present dye was the dye CI 15850 – pigment red 57. Among the most commonly present UV-filters was benzophenone-1. We found 10 types of different fragrances in the products, which belong to 26 most allergenic fragrances. The most frequently found phthalate was polyethylene terephtalate. From each of the ingredients groups (colorants, UV-filter, fragrances, preservatives and phthalates) we selected the most commonly used ingredients in the products we´ve research. Based on toxicological profile, we evaluate their safety. In case of acute exposure, CI 15850 – pigment red 57 was classified as the safest dye and benzophenone-1 as the safest UV-filter. But, since they have detected estrogenic activity of benzophenone-1 in in vitro studies on human cells, it can not be classified as a very safe ingredient. We have estimated, that the safest among most frequently occuring fragrances is benzyl alcohol, because it is irritating only during frequent contact. Limonene is classified as one of the most common contact allergens and geraniol can cause allergic contact dermatitis. Between preservatives, phenoxyethanol is the safest, because it is not genotoxic, carcinogen and reproductive toxicity has only been shown in animals at high concentrations. We have estimated, that the safest among phthalates is polyethylene terephthalate, because it is not genotoxic, irritating and reproductive toxic. We can conclude, that the products with the ingredients, which we have studied in research, are still safe to use, if the content of these ingredients does not exceed the prescribed concentrations, that are defined in Cosmetic Products Regulation (EC) No. 1223/2009.

Keywords:nails, decorative products for nails, colorants, phthalates, safety

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